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“Dueling Destinations in
Florida”
He wants Fort Lauderdale, She wants South Beach.
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As
Featured in
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Maine Sunday Telegram - Sept 11, 2005
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By Heather Burke
As I sit on our
oceanfront balcony overlooking the beautiful blue waters, and a
seemingly endless stretch of coral sand beach, I am so glad we added
Fort Lauderdale to our Miami trip. You see, I had wanted to go to
“South Beach” since I heard it was the most hip and happening spot on
the East Coast. My husband Greg searched flights for our South Florida
getaway, and JetBlue popped up with direct flights from Boston to Fort
Lauderdale. It was Kismet I guess, since Greg was more excited about
Lago Mar, a posh Fort Lauderdale resort he had read about right on the
beach.
So began the “his and hers trip,” four days of sun and fun – two days
of his choice, and two on my time. Sunscreen applied, game on!
Arriving at
Lago Mar,
we received a most gracious reception, as if they’d been awaiting our
arrival. The lobby alone is extraordinary from the trompe l’oile
ceiling and grand chandelier to the sea mosaic tiles in the entry,
just a precursor for our two days of luxury and relaxation.
Lago Mar is a four-diamond resort extending over ten lush acres. We
couldn’t wait to explore our surroundings, which revealed two gorgeous
swimming pools draped by tall palms, the Promenade poolside bar, an
elegant full-service spa, tennis courts, mini-golf, and 500-feet of
private uninterrupted beach.
Most of the 200+ rooms at Lago Mar are suites, and ours was
beautifully appointed overlooking the beach and ocean. I could have
been content just to sit on our fabulous deck, watching the cruise
ships heading for the Bahamas, listening to the surf.
But there is so much to do at Lago Mar, with daily activities
scheduled, live music, fruity drink specials and fabulous dining. And
you can walk the sun soaked beach or simply bob in the crystal blue
85° sea.
It had been 17 years since we’d been to Fort Lauderdale so we were
eager to see the sights, known as the yachting capital of the world.
We drove the strip, savored native conch fritters at the waterfront
Bahia Cabaña – which hadn’t changed a bit fortunately. Then we boarded
a boat tour from Las Olas Riverfront Plaza to see the incredible
yachts and homes of the rich and famous. Our witty Captain pointed out
multi-million dollar mansions and mega-yachts belonging to the likes
of Tiger Woods, and the Miami Dolphin players and owner. I called it
the “I feel poor tour,” but it was fun getting on the water to see why
Fort Lauderdale is called the “Venice of America” –featuring a
labyrinth of 200-miles of inland waterways.
Back at Lago Mar, we took turns lounging at the lagoon pool and the
marvelous private beach…(eeny-meeny-miny-mo). The staff seems to know
every guest’s name and desire, a credit to the three generations of
Banks family who have owned the resort since 1959 and continue to
polish their Condé Nast Gold winning property. It’s pricey (at $459
for a 2 night package, with a bountiful buffet breakfast and one
candlelight dinner thru October), but I had to tip my hat to Greg for
finding the finest resort, with the very best location on Fort
Lauderdale. If you don’t stay at Lago Mar, finding yourself up the
beach at a chain hotel, at least treat yourself to dinner at Acquario…delightful
and delicious fresh seafood with a superb sea view and topnotch
service.
Just a 30-minute drive south and we were in Miami, heading over the
causeway to the island of Miami Beach – called South Beach since its
revitalization in the late 80’s back to its heyday of the 1920 and
30’s. Today it is a pastel parade of art deco hotels, trendy shops and
“see and be seen” cafés. I immediately sensed a different vibe to my
side of the trip as we cruised Ocean and Collins. People were out
strolling the beachfront boulevards in bikinis, celebrity look-alike
sunglasses and designer swag.
So many movies and celebrities have brought South Beach to the
limelight in the past decade, so much so - it is now named Hollywood
East as stars, wannabes and designer boutiques have made the scene.
The South Beach diet also brought acclaim to this Mecca of body
conscience beach goers.
As if on cue in our first five minutes, we saw hot bodies (of course,
it was over 90° in the shade so everyone’s body was relatively “hot”).
Prada-wearing pooches escorted buff bods in thongs along the sand and
the walkway that lines the expansive beach. If there is one thing in
common between Fort Lauderdale and Miami – it’s the huge beaches that
both possess, long and wide stretches of sand meeting surf. South
Beach has adorably decorated lifeguard shacks – each unique and
postcard perfect.
We stayed at the
South Seas,
a boutique hotel of the
Atlantic Star
group owned by a Newport Rhode Island entrepreneur. The property
featured a pool with an outdoor bar and café, a sandy hammock area,
and private gates to access the famous beach.
South Seas is ideally located amongst the big boys of SoBe. The
National, the chic Delano, and the posh Ritz Carlton all don distinct
but flattering architecture that conjures the Golden Era with playful
hues and Hollywood-esque facades. Hard to believe some hotels met the
wrecking ball just a few decades earlier, but then came a
Hollywood-style makeover.
There was a decided foreign flavor, as the South Seas staff was
predominantly Spanish speaking and the clientele was a melting pot
(not just because of the steamy Miami climate) of Europeans and South
Americans. SoBe has international flair, which puts it on the map for
people watching. Another fun activity is just checking out the lobbies
of all the fashionable hotels, each with its own designer décor
ranging from new wave to minimalist to fabulously funky.
I should mention the shopping along the pedestrian-zoned Lincoln
Boulevard is worth a browse. Deals on knock-off fashions can be
unearthed here, and there are plenty of mod sidewalk cafes to maintain
your stamina.
One of the highlights of our South Beach stay was our evening at
Tantra.
To say we dined here does not suffice. Tantra, as its name implies, is
a spiritual immersion of the senses – tantalizing and so very South
Beach. From the grass entryway (seriously, real grass) and marble
waterfall to the fiber optic skyscape, Tantra is extraordinary. Exec
Chef Sandee Birdsong prepares aphrodisiac cuisine, which is flown in
fresh, innovative and beautiful to behold. I can see why Tantra’s
guest list reads like a who’s who of the box office. After indulging
in the Tantra seafood appetizer for two – Greg & I gladly add our
names to that A-list (yeah, right). As the evening proceeds into the
wee hours, Tantra becomes a vogue nightclub with pulsing music and
“glamorous” late arrivals.
We checked out a few nightclubs in South Beach…but we Mainers were too
early at midnight since the hippest clubs are open from 1-5am (that’s
no typo).
From the waterfront Bayside Mall, we took a boat tour of Miami’s
Biscayne Bay. The tour brought us by the immense cruise ship port of
Miami, then past the fashionable Fischer Island where Oprah and
Britney apparently have pads. And our tour was complete with a glimpse
of Star Island where Shaquille O”Neal escapes the “Heat” and Sean P.
Diddy Combs hangs out in what was formerly Mariah Carey’s mansion.
Enough name-dropping – another popular Miami pastime.
Our last night, we dined at “A Fish Called Avalon,” a superb seafood
restaurant in the understatedly elegant Avalon Hotel (also owned by
Tom Glassie of the South Seas Hotel,
www.atlanticstars.com). Our table on the veranda afforded us a
distant view of the beach and an entertaining procession of passersby
throughout our wonderful meal. A two-night package for two this fall
at South Seas Hotel is $299 for lodging, daily Continental breakfast
and an $80 dinner certificate to A Fish Called Avalon.
My expectations of South Beach were certainly met, it is hip and
happening and “all that.” I even caught Greg engaging in people
watching and a bit of shopping.
So who won the “his versus hers” vacation game? Definite win/win.
While we each took a vested preference in our own spot, we also made
sure the other enjoyed our own pick (an ironic twist).
Fort Lauderdale is a great destination for a classic Florida beach
vacation, lounging by the pool, the beach, or on a magnificent yacht.
If not a yacht, Lago Mar is the place for old world beachfront
elegance with the trimmings of a modern resort and spa.
South Beach is the cool place to go for hot nightlife, shopping and
celeb-spotting. And the Florida sunshine followed our every move
throughout our vacation competition.
If You Go:
Lago Mar Resort and Club, 1700 South Ocean Lane, Fort Lauderdale
1-800-LAGOMAR,
www.lagomar.com ideally located beachfront suites and superb
dining.
Port Everglade Boat Tour 1 ½ hour departs from Las Olas Riverfront to
tour the mansions and yachts of Fort Lauderdale’s inland waterways.
www.anticipation.com
South Seas Hotel, 1751 Collins Ave. Miami, FL (just above 17th Street)
1-800-345-2678
www.southseashotel.com
A Fish Called Avalon at the Avalon Hotel on Ocean Drive for AAA
4-diamond dining call 305-538-1727,
www.avalonhotel.com
Tantra on Pennsylvania Ave. for dining that heightens the senses
call305-672-4765,
www.tantrarestaurant.com
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Photos: Greg Burke