Cliff House - Maine Beach and Spa Getaway

It felt familiar but fanciful driving through the vacation town of Ogunquit, just minutes from our home. Day one of our “staycation plan”, we packed up our car, with bikes and our bags, and in just 10 miles (less than a gallon of gas, no TSA hassles) we were tourists in our neighboring town. We passed brightly painted boutiques and cafes with a new appreciation, admiring beautiful gardens spilling onto the sidewalks along famous Shore Road on our way to the Cliff House - our desirable destination for a few nights. The Cliff House is in Cape Neddick, in neighboring York, Maine.

Within a half hour of leaving home, we were sitting by the vanishing edge pool, which is perched on the Resort’s spectacular Bald Head Cliff. With drink in hand, we watched lobster boats ply the Atlantic below the dramatic rocky cliffs. Spa appointments had been arranged, oceanview dinner reservations were made (all part of the Spa package). This was easy, breezy.

While downtown Ogunquit and Perkins Cove had seemed absolutely bursting with beach attired tourists, The Cliff House was removed from the crowds and quiet. After some sun and a soak in the incredibly scenic outdoor whirlpool, we returned to our spacious room in the Cliff Spa building, which offered us a sunset, and distant views of Ogunquit Beach (other rooms orient toward the cliffs and York).

The Cliff House’s formal dining room (business casual attire is required) is the oldest continuously operating restaurant in Maine, and certainly one of the most scenic. Our five course dinner was delicious, the live piano from the Cliff Lounge drifted to our waterfront window table. The Chef’s locally inspired creations of creamy pink lobster bisque, halibut with blueberries, and Maine rock shrimp risotto were served slowly as we watched the waves crash into the cliffs, which are illuminated come nightfall.

We brought our bikes and started the next morning with a coastal ride to Nubble Light in Cape Neddick. Shore Road is hilly and narrow in spots – warning to bikers. A bountiful buffet breakfast back at the Cliff House tasted all the better after touring the salt-aired shoreline.

A walk of the 70-acre grounds of The Cliff House Resort reveals several lodges of different vintages, the Cliff Spa being the newest which opened in 2002 to house 32 guest rooms, the extensive Spa and a 75-foot indoor lap pool. The resort has been in The Weare family since 1872 when train service started bringing summer guests from the City. A room with 3 meals a day was $6 a week per person, and the family formula was motto was: “clean rooms, fine food, fresh air, personable hospitality, all in an incomparable scenic location atop Bald Head Cliff.” Fourth generation Kathryn Weare operates the Cliff House today with the same mantra, and while the rates have multiplied (try $360/night), and guests now drive Mercedes and Maseratis, the incredible views from every spot on the property have not changed – whether you are in Cliff Spa, or the connected Cliffscape, or the older buildings of Ledges and Clifftop (rates are less in the older, but equally scenic buildings).

The trolley will take you the 3-miles to town for shopping, or drop you at Perkin’s Cove to catch a tour boat or to walk the mile-long Marginal Way. You should also ride to Ogunquit Beach (parking is tight prime summer in this town – so the trolley or a bike makes tons of sense). Being natives, we knew low tide was the time to walk the three miles of wide, flat sandy beach all the way to famous Footbridge Beach, and back to the sand bar where the Ogunquit River flows into the sea. We wished we’d brought a boogie board or an inner tube to float along this fresh water lazy raft ride, those that did were having a blast on this balmy beach day.

A mid afternoon stop in Perkin’s Cove for a little boutique browsing and a picnic was perfect. There are ice cream shops and seafood take-out windows, as well as sit down restaurants - all waterfront, whatever suits your mood.

We returned to the Cliff House in time for a dip in the dramatic oceanside pool before our spa appointments. We donned our fluffy robes, and waited in the serenely scented spa reception room. Choosing a treatment from the six page menu was mind boggling, did I want a seashell massage, an Atlantic antioxidant, or a blueberry body wrap? Greg needed to be kneaded, he decided on the deep tissue massage.

Now I must admit to being a reluctant spa-go’er, not entirely comfortable with poking, prodding and peeling. The Spa Director assured me the Cliff House Signature Facial would be ideal. Right on she was – it was ideal, enjoyable and downright decadent – as the aesthetician dimmed the lights, wrapped me in warm towels and proceeded to massage my face, neck and décolleté with aromatic tangerine and blueberry creams, ending with a warm seashell massage. And my skin looked clear, and bright like a berry on the vine in July. Okay, that may be a stretch – but the spa personnel were pros, the Cliff Spa facility and all natural products are top shelf and top priority at the Cliff House.

It was a perfect Maine day (being local we know the scale from perfect to pathetic), from biking, to beaching, and being pampered. A seaside dinner with candlelight overlooking the cliffs was all we required, and sleeping to the sounds of the waves crashing against the shore.

The next morning, we worked out in the fitness room, which rivals a first rate cruise ship with a wall of ocean view windows and top of the line Nautilus equipment. Each treadmill has its own TV, and every work out station imaginable awaits (no lines, no waiting) in the bright spacious atrium.

A last leisurely breakfast overlooking the Atlantic Waters had us both wanting to stay longer. In the distance we could see Boone Island, a sunset cruise around the spooky secluded ledge would be entertaining, or a sail aboard that schooner would be dreamy. But our mini getaway was concluding. In 20 minutes we’d be home, but happy for our time hanging out at The Cliff. Nice to know that just a short drive away, and again we could find ourselves worlds away for a few days.


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