If your summer has felt like a bummer,
consider a warm sunny island with pink sandy beaches. Just a two
hour flight ($99 each way), and you can be strolling
one of the most beautiful beaches in the world. Closer than the
Caribbean and milder in temperature, since Bermuda shares the
latitude of Myrtle Beach, this British island will quickly charm
you with its turquoise blue waters, sunshine and trade winds.
Having tired of this summer’s drizzle, we pounced on airfare to
beautiful Bermuda ($200 round trip plus tax) for a mid-summer
retreat. Leaving Maine for a morning flight out of Boston, by
midday we were sipping Rum Swizzles by the water in the sultry
85-degree air of this romantic island (actually a coral reef
atop a dormant volcano).
We couldn’t decide which of Bermuda’s famed Fairmont hotels to
stay at, so we chose both, starting with the oldest first. The
Fairmont Hamilton Princess (circa 1885) is a 410-room pink
hotel overlooking Hamilton Harbor. Named for Queen Victoria’s
daughter Princess Louise, she declared Bermuda a chic
destination in the late 1800’s and the rest is history. Her
lavish hotel was built to the finest standards, which continue
to this day with meticulously kept grounds, spectacular views of
the harbor as mega yachts pass by, and an elegant interior where
High Tea is honored, among other debonair traditions.
Two outdoor harbor view pools offer salt & fresh water swimming,
a spa and a putting green, plus two restaurants provide
amusement in this urbane four-diamond hotel.
After R&R at the
hotel, we walked the few blocks to the capital city’s center to
the shops and dining on Front Street. We loved the Bermuda fish
chowder spiked with Rum at the Hog Penny. At the Pickled Onion
nightclub (Bermudians are
nicknamed “onions) we found a lively
group of locals and ex pats, all swizzling rum. As we strolled
back to our hotel in a warm flower-infused breeze, we passed
live bands at vibrant outdoor cafes on the waterfront. Bermuda
feels safer, and more sophisticated than most Caribbean islands,
but there is a similar island joie de vivre.
The deals are best at the Hamilton Princess on weekends, since
this in-town hotel is busy with business clientele midweek.
During our weekend, we explored Hamilton, took a boat excursion
out of the harbor, and enjoyed the posh Princess, then we rode
the free water ferry (exclusive for Fairmont guests) to the
sister hotel, The Southampton for our final two days.
The Fairmont Southampton is also a palatial pink hotel; this
one perched high on a hillside with water view balconies from
all of its 593 rooms. A 100-acre resort surrounds the pink crown
hotel, built in 1972, with an executive golf course, a private
beach club, and tennis. Staying at the Southampton, you have six
restaurants, an Explorer camp for kdis, Bermuda’s biggest and
best spa, and a nightclub all at your whim.
We beelined to the beach club, a stunning cove with silky sand
surrounded by jagged coral cliffs. Beach chaises and umbrellas
are provided; kayaks, floats, snorkel gear and dive equipment
are available to rent. And barefoot waiters deliver cool drinks
and juicy burgers to your spot in the sand. Snorkeling just 100
yards from our perfect beach chaises, we discovered rainbow
colored parrotfish and trunk fish, floating over pillar coral
and gigantic sea urchin in the brilliant blue waters.
For the most “Bermudaful” beach walk ever, we lathered on
sunscreen (Bermuda’s sun index is a 10+), and walked to South
Shore Park (the park gates are next to Southampton’s private
beach club).
With just swimsuits, sunglasses and a camera (a must), we
explored the satiny pink sand of Horseshoe Beach, considered one
of the top 10 beaches in the world. We continued for two miles
along a labyrinth of coral caves amid crashing waves to find
more hidden beach bays. This is truly one of the most
spectacular places on the planet (just break away from the
cruise ship day trippers – they don’t walk too far or too fast).
Another scenic walk from the pink hotel, visit Gibb’s
Lighthouse, the highest point on Bermuda for a panorama of the
entire archipelago. One caveat: you must climb 185-steps to the
top of the 1844 oldest cast-iron lighthouse in the world.
If this sounds like excessive effort, treat yourself to a day at
the Hotel’s Willow Stream Spa– for $29 you get a fluffy robe and
slippers, admission to the fitness facilities, a private indoor
pool and outdoor hot tubs with spectacular views, steam and
sauna rooms (plus a tempting menu of a la carte treatments).
Southampton’s
dining options require serious decision making skills (or better
– a week). There’s an Italian bistro Bacci at
the golf course, the beachfront Ocean Club for sunset and sushi,
the chic lobby bar Jasmine, poolside at Wickets, the mahogany
yacht-themed Newport Room, and the historical steak house - 1670 Waterlot Inn (reputed among the best in Bermuda – I agree).
After dinner, the Cellar is the spot for cocktails and dancing,
while the Jasmine Lounge often has live jazz.
Four days of exploring this lush island, swimming the crystal
clear blue waters, soaking up the sun, and enjoying Bermudian
hospitably was not enough. Having stayed at both Fairmonts, I
preferred the resort setting of the Southampton. However The
Hamilton Princess is the place if you like to be in town, close
to the bars, shop and restaurants – as many folks we met said
they favored.
Staying a few nights at each you get the best of both worlds,
the cosmopolitan ambiance of the grand historic Hamilton in the
heart of the colony’s capital, then relaxation at the sun and
scenery filled Southampton resort with the best beach club.
Bermuda is a quick, classy getaway for New Englanders. You will
see sun, truly pink sand (created by the crushed coral), and men
in Bermuda shorts (the delightfully proper male dress code of
knee socks and bright coordinated knickers).
Bermuda is four
centuries old, early explorers wrecked their ships on the 138 island
reefs that comprise Bermuda – earning the legendary name “Isle
of the Devils” (and making way for fantastic diving and
snorkeling). Now you can have a devilishly good time in Bermuda.
Bermuda’s best 10 tips:
Visit Horseshoe Beach - listed among the top 10 beaches in the
world. Slather on the sunscreen, carry your camera and enjoy the
most beautiful beach walk ever.
Taste Bermuda’s Fish Chowder - this rich dark chowder is laced
with local Dark Rum and sherry. Our best bowl was at Hog Penny,
a British pub in Hamilton.
Avoid the Cruise ship crowd - ships dock primarily at the
Dockyard and St. George’s, so head elsewhere when they’re in
port.
Chat with the “onions” - local term for Bermudians. They are
friendly charming people that love sharing tips and tales of
their island.
Skip the moped, ride the bus - Bermuda public buses are
friendly, cheaper than cabs, and surely safer than mopeds on the
tight twisty island roads. Visitor may not rent cars.
While the weather is typically warm and sunny, Bermuda’s
official drink is “Dark ‘n Stormy” of ginger beer with Goslings’
Black Seal Rum.
Look for deals to Bermuda,
including resort credits when you book 4 or more nights.
Bermuda’s season is best April to early November.
Bring US your money - US dollars are accepted on par with
Bermudian currency.
Be prepared that Bermuda is pricey, you get what you pay for…can
you put a price tag on sunshine?
Here are a few
more travel features ranging from
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and sunning at Florida's
classic Fort Lauderdale and steamy South Beach, Miami.