I was just settling into
the flight when the captain announced, “Please take your seats for
landing.” Just one hour and 40 minutes in the air from Boston and we
had arrived in Bermuda. By 10:30am, we were lounging by 82-degree
azure blue waters, listening to sultry waves massaging the pink sand
of one of the most beautiful beaches imaginable.
On our second day in this proximate paradise, we learned that you can
travel around the entire island in only 49 minutes and 7 seconds! Talk
about a quick getaway for today’s time-deprived vacationers.
To be fair, you really need at least three days to explore this
romantic coral reef, to sink your feet into the soft rosy sand, to
swim in the brilliant blue waters and feel the intoxicating island
rhythm. And while vacationers can take a boat tour around the entire
island, 49 minutes was the fastest clocked time around the island at
the annual “Round the Island Race,” which we viewed from the comforts
of our beach chaise.
If Bermuda is the best destination for a timely tropical tryst for
Mainers, then The Fairmont Southampton
has the best of Bermuda all
wrapped up in a pretty pink package. The confection colored hotel
crowns the 100-acre resort, surrounded by an executive golf course,
tennis, six restaurants, and Bermuda’s biggest and best spa. Each of
the palatial pink hotel’s 593 rooms offer water views and while it is
not directly on the beach (which seems like a hindrance at first), an
efficient trolley delivers you to a spectacular private beach club, or
to a ferry dock where you can ride a free water shuttle to the capital
city of Hamilton or the Royal Dockyard for shopping.
Within a short walk of the hotel, we discovered some of Bermuda’s best
sites; Gibb’s Lighthouse is a must (if you are not afraid of heights).
You can climb the 182 steps for the most impressive panorama of the
island that $2.50 admission can buy.
Adjacent to the Fairmont’s exclusive beach club is stunning
Southampton Park and famous Horseshoe Beach, considered one of the top
10 beaches in the world (deservedly so – I concur). You can walk for
two miles along a labyrinth of coral caves and formations that jut
from the otherwise satiny pink sand.
Other than that, you really don’t need to leave the inclusive property
grounds. By day, you can snorkel right in the resort’s protected cove,
or take an excursion boat, play golf, croquet or tennis, or do nothing
at all but savor the glorious setting and sip a frosty drink delivered
by the Cabana boy.
Treat yourself to Willow Stream Spa access one day – you will get a
fluffy robe, fitness facilities, a private indoor pool and outdoor hot
tubs with spectacular views of the ocean plus very personal service
(with a head-spinning list of the latest a la carte body treatments).
By night, stroll to the Italian bistro called Bacci on the golf
course, watch the sunset as you dine beachfront at The Whaler, or
bayside at the historical 1670 Waterlot Inn, or experience elegant
four-diamond cuisine in the Hotel’s mahogany yacht-inspired Newport
Room.
After dinner, soak in the Spa’s Jacuzzi with a splendid sunset (the
spa facility is complimentary for hotel guests after 6:30p.m.), or
catch the jazz act in the cozy enclave Wine Cellar. The lobby bar is
also a happening spot for drinks and music till late (the afternoon
setting for traditional High Tea if cucumber sandwiches are your
thing).
If you feel the tug to explore beyond the resort, grab a free ferry
from the hotel dock, a cab or bus, or rent a moped - just know that
Bermuda roads are narrow and curvy so don’t “pitch a hot” (local term
for getting tipsy). Visitors may not rent cars.
After excursions to several beach resorts along the South Shore, to
the Naval Dockyard and to the humming port of Hamilton (where you can
visit the more urbane sister-property Fairmont Hamilton Princess), we
would return to the Fairmont Southampton and remark that we had the
best beach club, best views, best walks and some of the finest
restaurants on the island.
The Southampton rooms are lovely – the hotel received $43 million in
renovations after Hurricane Fabian struck in 2003 (and everything
looks new), the staff is gracious and extremely well trained (perhaps
because they were all paid even while the hotel was closed for seven
months during the refurbishment).
Bermuda is a fabled isle (actually a coral reef atop a dormant
volcano). Early explorers called it the “Isle of the Devils,” since
the prominent reefs that surround the main island wrecked over a
hundred ships – making for today’s great diving and snorkeling.
Bermuda shorts and knee-highs are the real deal – a delightfully
proper male dress code that has to be seen to be appreciated.
And last but not least, Bermuda is reputedly “expensive.” Well, you
get what you pay for. Dinners are $30-$40 per entrée, while lunch runs
about $15, and the focus on food quality is evident and enjoyable.
Don’t go to Bermuda for shopping; instead splurge on top-shelf lodging
and delicious cuisine at this honeymoon haven.
As Mark Twain said after spending time there, “You go to heaven, I’ll
stay in Bermuda.”
Bermuda Do’s and Don’ts
Do consider Bermuda in October or November, to extend your Maine
summer.
Do meet some “onions” – the local term for native Bermudians – they
are truly charming people with a genuine love of sharing tales and
truths about their idyllic island.
Do ride the bus – a great way to meet “onions,” and save money on cab
fares.
Do ride the water shuttle, free for Fairmont guests.
Do visit Gibbs Lighthouse, but only climb if you are fit and not
fearful of heights.
Do visit Crystal Cave (right near the airport), especially convenient
if you time it on your arrival or departure, with lunch at the
landmark Swizzle Inn, known for its staggering rum drink and hearty
pub fare.
Don’t exchange your money, US dollars are accepted on par and just as
readily as Bermudian funds.
Don’t forget the sunscreen, the UV index at this sub-tropical island
is a ten plus, intense.
Bring the kids - Fairmont Southampton has free Explorer Camp for kids
during the day, and Seven Up club in the evenings.
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