Gotta go to Stowe

Where to go for ski vacation? Quebec is not the downhillers’ deal it was just a few years ago, the jump in the Canadian dollar has taken the financial fun out of border hopping for a ski trip. Same goes for Europe. Flying out west is anything but pleasant or predictable, due to the erroneous airlines. Here’s a thought – check out Vermont. Stowe, long known as “Ski Capital of the East,” is just 3.5 hours drive from Portland and you’re transported to a charming New England scene that sparkles in winter.

We recently made the voyage to Stowe for the weekend, and we felt worlds away. There’s something about Stowe, from the moment you arrive in the quaint village, a scene out of a Norman Rockwell, till you point your tips down the venerable Front Four terrain.

At the Stoweflake Mountain Resort we were greeted by the friendliest of staff and fresh cookies, served everyday fireside in the lobby. What began as a humble ski hotel in 1963 by the Baraw family is now a sprawling 4-diamond resort with beautiful townhouses, and a spectacular spa, still owned and operated by the same family.

The Stoweflake is well situated halfway between Stowe’s delightful downtown and the ski resort, which we found handy - wanting to spend plenty of time at both. Of course you could be content to stay right at Stoweflake for cross-country skiing, the heated pool, spa treatments and one of the best après ski bars in town - Charlie B’s. You can walk from Stoweflake to several shops and restaurants, there’s even a shuttle to take you to the ski area.

But we wanted first tracks and waiting for a shuttle just wouldn’t do for my eager crew. Stowe redefines early turns with a 7:30am opening on their premier quad lift, The Forerunner. When you witness the core skiers lined up before sun up, you know you are in serious ski country. Stowe is the stuff of legends, skiing on the highest mountain in Vermont at 4,395’, with the longest trails in New England (the original Toll Road trail is 3.7 miles long).

Any skier worth his sticks knows of the Front Four: double black diamond trails - Goat, Starr, National and Liftline are all steep, unique and butt-kicking. So that’s where we headed first thing and skied ‘em all till our knees barked. Then we cruised on classic cut trails Lord, Tyro and Sunrise as the morning sun glinted off the fresh snow. Stowe has received over 13 feet of snow this season, even the precipitous glades were powder covered on our early January visit.

By 8:30am, and a slew of 2,000’vertical runs, the Gondola opened to the top of Mt. Mansfield where more quintessential Stowe trails awaited. Perry Merrill (named for the forester who helped carve these trails with Charlie Lord in the 1930’s), Chin Clip and Gondolier are each long and undulating with superb scenery of the rugged peaks and Vermont valleys beyond.

A scan of Stowe’s liftline reveals a mix of granola grazing telemarkers, ear-plugged execs and their totally equipped kids (Stowe is owned by a major Insurance company), ski icons like Ski Magazine’s Stu Campbell, and lovely ladies in Bogners that still beat it down the hill. Since its beginnings in the 1930’s and those first skimeister trains from Manhattan, Stowe has been a congregation of the best skiers in the East, and a vacation enclave to the Northeast’s upper crust.

Nowhere is Stowe’s powder pursuing pedigree more apparent than over at Spruce Peak, the other half of Stowe ski area across the Mountain Road. Spruce Peak was once the quiet side, tame ski terrain, anchored by a funky Austrian style base lodge. Now Spruce Peak is being spruced up. The massive Stowe Mountain Lodge being constructed is the centerpiece of a stately skier village, the scale of this slopeside project is a mere $400 million.

Already you can ride New England’s only 10-person gondola, Over Easy, that connects the two mountains over the notch road, and enjoy new lifts on Spruce’s varied intermediate terrain.

Previously Stowe’s base area had no lodging. Now Stowe skiers can buy mountain mansions (called “cabins,” but they’re high on the hill and huge) or posh penthouse pads. All this luxe comes along with alpine concierge service (like Deer Valley - they fetch your skis and warm your boots), shops, a spa, and stellar views.

Of course, the best of Stowe is the rest of Stowe. You must save strength to tour this dreamy alpine town, with just the right dose of resort sophistication. There’s a 5.3-mile recreation path for cross-country skiing or long winter walks from the steepled Stowe Church winding its way toward the mountain along the river. There’s also the “Swimming Hole,” an indoor pool and athletic facility funded by local snowboard success Jake Burton.

Après ski for me was retail therapy at the many boutiques along Main Street and Stowe’s famed Mountain Road. You can find everything from penny candy and Vermont-made treasures at Shaw’s century-old mercantile, to runway fashions and designer downhill apparel.

While his wallet was getting a workout, my husband was under the waterfall and in the Hungarian mineral pools at Stoweflake’s award-soaked spa awaiting his “mountain man massage,” one of 120 tempting treatments offered. For the kids, the resort’s heated indoor and outdoor pools and game room fit the bill.

Dining in Stowe is a dilemma. Of the 60 some-odd restaurants, from cozy Austrian pubs to the family-friendly Pie in the Sky pizza, there seems to be a culinary competition amongst chefs to outdo each other – good news is the diner wins every time.

There is so much to see and do around Stowe, a weekend wasn’t nearly enough. We didn’t have time to visit the “Sound of Music” famous Trapp Family Lodge, or the Vermont Ski Museum, go dog-sledding or snowmobiling, but we did have two superb days of skiing Stowe’s inimitable terrain.

To top off our weekend of downhill indulgence, we stopped at Ben & Jerry’s on our way out of town. After a 30-minute guided snowshoe through the snowy Vermont forest with Umiak Outfitters, we enjoyed an entertaining tour of the famous ice-cream factory. The snowshoeing is not required, but I can attest it makes the creamy ice cream sample at the tour’s end taste more like a reward.

On our drive back to Maine, my son ranked Stowe officially the best ski resort in New England, no one argued which made it worth the trip for that reason alone. You should go to Stowe.

Stowe Ski Tips: Night skiing on Saturday nights means the kids can night ski under the gondola while mom & dad enjoy the Summit Series dinner atop the mountain at the Cliff House restaurant, often capped off with fireworks or a torchlight parade.

Stowe Lodging: Go for a lift & lodging package, Stoweflake offers winter getaways including a full buffet breakfast, call 1-802-253-2232.