VERMONT

 

Time to Tame "The Beast"
 

This story was Published in The Maine Sunday Telegram with 3 accompanying photographs

Published: January 2003

By Heather Burke

While Sunday River was the birthplace of American Skiing Company and continues to be the flagship resort, Killington is bigger, logs more skier days, has more trails, and a longer season. It is referred to as “the Beast of the East.” Located in the heart of Vermont, a 3-½ hour drive from Portland, Killington is indeed a big dog among New England skiing puppies.

But Beastly? Seems a little harsh for a ski resort with two high-speed heated gondolas, 12 comfy quads and the world’s most extensive snowmaking system.

Perhaps part of the beastly reputation comes from the sprawling layout. Killington is the biggest ski area in the Northeast with 200 trails, and 31 lifts.

Negotiating this vast trail network is a bear. With seven separate skiing mountains, including its own Bear Mountain, it is a maze even with the multipart trail map in hand.

Did I mention Killington has the highest lift-serviced peak in New England at 4,215-feet? That is over 1,000 feet higher than the summit of Sunday River.

Killington’s notorious bump run Outer Limits is the steepest trail in the East with a drop of 1,200 vertical-feet in a half-mile. Also, home to the longest trail, the Juggernaut meanders 6.7 miles from the summit.

Killington’s ski season outlasts all other Eastern ski areas with a four-decade habit of being first in the East to open (in October) and last to close (often in June), one of the longest seasons in all of North America. Are those enough accolades for you?

So, where to begin? Find a place to hang your hat so you can tackle the beast over the course of a few days. Killington’s Grand Resort Hotel is an ideal location, modeled after Sunday River’s. You can opt for a standard hotel room, on up to a two or three bedroom suite with an efficiency kitchen. Kids enjoy splashing around in the decadent outdoor heated pool, while grown ups soak their sore ski muscles in the two hot tubs.

Most rooms have a view of the slopes, and you can walk across a skier’s bridge from the full service hotel to board a lower mountain ski lift. The hotel is convenient to several restaurants, the indoor climbing wall and ski school at Snowshed Lodge, and close to Rams Head Family Center.

Killington also has loads of condominiums nestled in and around the base area for rent, or have your pick from dozens of lodges and inns along the bustling access road. Your best bet is to call central reservations, since they offer the widest selection of ski town accommodations in North America – yet another accolade.

The tamest terrain is at Snowshed and Rams Head. These are the beginner friendly areas where the recently revamped learning and family centers are based.

Killington Peak, reached by the cushy multi-colored K-1 gondola, is the centerpiece of the ski area and the true summit. From atop Killington Peak, you can see competitor ski areas in the distance, Stratton, Okemo, and Ascutney. From here you can ski many classic trails like Great Eastern and Cascade, and reach the upper elevation runs in the Glade area where many of the locals tend to hide out.

Bear Mountain is a mogul-lovers haven, and tends to get the most sun. This is where Donna Weinbrecht learned to master the moguls as a youngster; you can appreciate her gold-winning talent as you bounce down the big bumps of Outer Limits.

Come spring when the snow softens and the winter dress code loosens, Bear Mountain is the site of Killington’s festive “beach parties.”

Superstar and Needles Eye, located in the hub of the area, offer lots of great descents. Superstar is home to the Killington Glacier, where they stockpile up to 30-feet of snow throughout the winter so die-hards can ski in to June.

A fun way to see and ski much of the vast resort is to ski all the way down to the base of the Skyeship Gondola. As you wander down miles of trails to Route 4, you will feel like you have entered another zip code, but you are still within ski area boundaries and you have descended the entire 3,050 vertical feet.

If you require professional guidance, Killington offers a free Meet the Mountain Tour that lasts 2-1/2 hours – these things take time at the Beast.

A word of caution, it is easy to get separated from your party at this sizeable resort with one wrong turn, so radios or a meet spot are worth having.

With 1,182 skiable acres, Killington is best tamed over a week, preferably mid-week since New Yorkers move in on this skiing Mecca on weekends.

A bonus during a Killington stay is to ski sister resort Pico, valid on the same lift ticket. This ski area is the real deal, dating back to 1937. Here skiers are rewarded with time-honored New England ski trails, no crowds and beautiful Vermont views.

The plans is to interconnect Pico with Killington, but until then you need to drive or take the shuttle to Pico to enjoy the four dozen pristine trails on this quieter side.

Killington possesses one more accolade, “the best Eastern ski town for nightlife.” There are over 100 bars and restaurants along the Killington Access Road. With so many thriving places, you can sniff out great happy hours and eateries for every craving.

The resort town is not all geared for party animals; there are plenty of family and kid friendly places. Casey’s Caboose is a great train stop with kids in tow, full of railroad memorabilia. Parents can enjoy drink specials while the kids munch on free appetizers and popcorn.

There is a definite Vermont charm that exists in the shops and country stores that dot the resort area, despite Killington’s size and volume of skier traffic and the influx of out-of-towners.

Killington has it all, snow, speedy lifts, great après ski and dining, and plenty of beds to rest your head.

Is bigger better? Should Killington displace Sunday River and be anointed the flagship A.S.C. resort in the east?

Well this winter, Killington has received over 16 feet of snow already, more than last season’s total accumulation and more than Maine ski areas. Who can find fault with riding high-speed gondolas and getting fresh tracks in Vermont powder?

The Beast of the East definitely warrants a ski visit, this monster mountain should not intimidate you.

If You Go:
Killington central reservations, including The Grand Resort Hotel and condominium rentals, can be reached at 1-800-897-6665 or check out www.killington.com 
 

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All Photography by Greg Burke

 

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