Family Ski Trips
 
Looking for snow - try Utaaaah!
Published on Boston.com
Also Featured in The Daily Evening Item
Story by Heather Burke
Photos by Greg Burke
 
Solitude Honeycomb CanyonLack of snow in our backyard ski areas got you down? Try what I did last week and jump on a 7am Delta flight out of Logan and you can be skiing some of Utah’s finest terrain by noon!

Best of all, these high elevation ski areas have already received over 15 feet of snow including 3 feet just over the Thanksgiving weekend. Needless to say, the coverage is already exceptional.

This time of year it is all about
Solitudeelevation, so you will want to head to the lofty ski areas in Big and Little Cottonwood Canyons. This means skiing Solitude, Brighton, Alta and Snowbird.

I started my ski week
at Solitude, a quaint 47-year old ski area that does not get the acclaim of namedrop Utah resorts like Park City, Deer Valley and Snowbird. But I can personally attest, it has similar big mountain terrain plus something the others lack… solitude!

This lack of crowds makes for a powder skier’s dream. I can appreciate the spectacular draw of Little Cottonwood Canyon (a.k.a. Alta and Snowbird) but skiers are doing themselves a disservice by skipping over this lesser known ski resort.

Solitude Honeycomb CanyonWhat our family loved about Solitude is that we had most of the 1,200 acres all to ourselves – rarely meeting up with another ski pack. As we dropped off the back of the 10,350-foot summit into Honeycomb Canyon – we could see and ski 400 acres of backcountry bowls (backcountry but lift served - a delightful oxymoron), rocky mountain chutes and gorgeous groves of aspen trees, all shared with less than a half dozen other skiers.

Solitude is boutique skiing, like a private powder club of Montana’s Yellowstone Club genre - only at Solitude you don’t need to ante up $3 mill to be a member, just a $47 lift ticket and you’re in.

The Village at SolitudeSpeaking of classy club amenities, the slopeside Village of Solitude was designed by Intrawest (of Tremblant, Whistler, Stratton pattern). The European style complex is luxurious and impeccably well planned. Just steps from your beautifully appointed condo suite, are the slopes, plus a couple of shops and restaurants. And there is Club Solitude, with billiards, movies, video games for the kids, an outdoor pool and hot tubs with a cozy firepit.

Skinny skiers will be happy to know, Solitude also has one of Utah’s largest Nordic facilities. You can even slide or snowshoe to dinner at the Yurt one night. What Solitude lacks, besides crowds, is nightlife. You can certainly whet your whistle at the Thirsty Squirrel, but Solitude is the place to go if Brighton Ski Area - Millicentyou want to get away from hustle, bustle, outlet malls and barroom brawls – it is peaceful and posh, with cord and powder aplenty.

Neighboring Brighton, which you can ski to from Solitude along the interconnect Sol-Bright trail, is more popular with the Salt Lake set (particularly the Y-Gen riders). While Brighton has 3 high-speed quads, and terrain parks galore, we liked exploring the natural bowl terrain on Mount Millicent, with ski anywhere you like snowfields, and meandering natural halfpipes between rock formations.

Alta LodgeAfter spending a few days exploring Big Cottonwood Canyon, we moved on to more famous neighbor Little Cottonwood Canyon. Home to two skiing legends, Alta and Snowbird, this is a skiing Mecca and a must visit for anyone who wants to be considered among the hardcore of our sport. Dating back to 1938, Alta is one of the country’s oldest ski areas with amazing lore and loyalty (Altans seem cut from the same cult-cloth as Mad River Glen lovers – earthy, eccentric folk that ski every day available).

From the old-fashioned chalets that dot the alpine base (elevation 8,530’), to the “no-snowboard” policy, Alta is steeped in ski tradition, and just plain steep.

“Alta is a very special place, it is a true skiers’ mountain,” said Alta’s Mayor Bill Levitt. “I like to refer to Alta as a haven. Eagles NestWe get more snow here, and there isn’t the stress people have in their everyday lives. You get out on Alta’s slopes, in the powder, and you can’t be thinking about your problems.”

Indeed, Alta’s 2,200 ski-able acres are already perfectly covered in snow for the season. We skied venerable vertical runs like High Rustler and Eagle’s Nest with hair-raising drops and stupendous chutes.

We opted to go for the classic Alta experience by staying slopeside at its oldest lodge, the Alta Lodge, same 1939 vintage as the ski area. This funky ski hotel is a veritable ski museum, from the communal style dining to the décor, which oozes decades of downhill history.

Après ski in the Sitzmark bar affords fantastic views of your day’s tracks, a crackling fire, and a visit by Mayor Levitt, Alta's High Rustler with Alta Lodgewho happens to be the Lodge owner. Over martinis, Levitt chronicles Alta anecdotes, many of which he proclaims are “actually true.” The Lodge is infectious like the powder skiing off Alta’s Sugarloaf lift. While the accommodations are modest, even retro (no in room TV), the food and camaraderie are exceptional. Who needs the tube when you can share tall tales with like-minded ski fanatics?

Alta is regaled and revered as a skiing original, but it is no relic resort. Alta is a top ski destination since its recent addition of modern lifts, snowmaking and a consistently first-rate staff and ski school.

Alta's Sugaloaf LiftWe were at Alta for the christening of their third detachable lift; a new base to summit quad replacing the classic (read: slow) Collins and Germania lifts. A high-speed inauguration is big news at the high elevation oasis, otherwise removed from the 24/7 CNN-cynical cycle. An hour prior to the lift’s grand opening, dyed-in-the-wool skiers gathered for pole clicking, yips and yahoos, firecrackers and champagne toasts, to accompany the 10-inches of champagne powder (a more common occurrence). Management assured skiers that the uphill capacity would be unchanged – the ski experience at Alta is #1 priority – Alta Snowbird Borderso there will be no overcrowding of slopes – and still no snowboarders…tradition.

To further improve their indomitable terrain, Alta made a connection three years ago (and made history yet again) with Snowbird to create America’s first lift-served interconnect. A $66 day Alta/Bird ticket accesses a total of 4,700 acres – terrain nearing Vail’s immensity.

Staying at Alta, you are immersed in skiing history and surrounded by some of the best terrain in North America.

Solitude Honeycomb Canyon - Jay BurkeIf you long for wide-open bowl skiing and frequent fresh powder, steep chutes filled with soft snow, and mountainous views as far as the eye can see, an early ski trip to Utah is a bountiful bet.

While we wait for Eastern base depths to pile up – the western powder hounds are getting face shots and raccoon tans. Should we let them have all the fun?


If you go:
Solitude Mountain Resort, Utah www.skisolitude.com
1-800-748-4754

Brighton Ski Area, Utah www.brightonresort.com 
1-800-873-5512

Alta Resort www.alta.com  1-888-782-9258

Alta Lodge www.altalodge.com  1-801-742-3500

Snowbird Ski Resort www.snowbird.com  1-801-933-2222
Solitude Atla's Wildcat Lift
Solitude

Alta's High Rustler

Alta Lodge Alta
Solitude Snowbird Tram
 
All Stories by Heather Burke
All Photography by Greg Burke
 
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