- “How to Ski Sunday River"
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By Heather Burke
If you listen
to the radio or watch TV from November to March in New England, you
are sure to hear your fill of commercials enticing you to “Take It To
The River." Sunday River - that is. And you really must experience this trend
setting, snowmaking capital in Maine. This is the "Vail of the East"
with rides galore, and snow falling from the sky daily -with or
without Mother Nature's help.
This mega resort handles the
crowds efficiently but here are some tips to moving around the
mountains to maximize your skiing experience.
10
Peaks at Sunday River – Luxury Ski House, Newry, Bethel
- Maine
5
Bedroom, 3
Full Bath 3,550 sq ft Luxury Ski House. Sunday River’s best
view. Giant great room with huge fireplace and entertainment
center! Game room with second entertainment center and pool
table. Gourmet kitchen. Master Bedroom with fireplace,
canopy bed, 2 person Jacuzzi Spa Tub and walk-in tile
shower. Covered deck with gas BBQ. Infinity edge Hot Tub
with stereo system. Laundry room with hi capacity
washer/dryer. Tastefully decorated with leather sofas,
Antique Skis, snowshoes, sleds, toboggans and wildlife
motif. Hi Def Flat Screen TV's. Free Wifi and Internet
access via on-site computer. Heated garage. Radiant Floor
heat plus 2 gas fireplaces.
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Sunday River ski resort is sprawling. It consists of eight unique mountain
areas and four different base areas. First you must choose your base
area, where to park, etc. If you require rentals, plan to utilize ski
lesson programs, children’s ski camps or daycare you should head to
South Ridge Base Area. This is the main hub, plenty of parking, all
the services you will need, even the Foggy Goggle (a great aprés ski
spot with a view up the slopes).
To get the best parking, you do want to arrive when the lifts open
(generally 8am weekends and 8:30-9 weekdays).
Barker Mountain, the original base
area, is a less encumbered camp ideal for simply buying a ticket and
jumping on the detach quad. The lodge has been recently upgraded with
a sunny deck to capture great views up Locke and Barker Mountains.
Last but not least, you may choose White Cap Base Area. This is home to
Shipyard's Brewpub, yet another fun lunch spot or res-ski bar and Nite Cap Fun Center in the evening, with tubing,
ice-skating and guided snowshoe tours.
The Jordan Grand base is remote; a destination in and of itself for
those staying at the Jordan Grand Hotel, eventually this may be a
full service resort village as part of Boyne's new plan.
If you
know anything about this sport, you know the early bird gets the
proverbial worm. In this case you can get ahead of the crowds up the
access road, the choice parking (which is in limited supply), quick
service at the ticket concourse, and you get all the corduroy you can
carve. Sunday River claims “It’s not unusual for a Sunday River skier
to get in 20 or more runs per day, even on weekends.” I am here to
verify that is not marketing, but truth! On a sunny Saturday in
February, we garnered over 30 runs. The finest lift system in the
East, indeed. Talk about getting your money’s worth. That’s two bucks a run! But you should have a plan and a trail map in your
pocket to accomplish such a knee weary day.
Lets talk turkey, because I spoke with plenty of them out there,
skiers going from one area to the next, pushing, cursing, and
sweating…not skiing. Words to the wise - do not spend time traversing
back and forth between mountain areas.
All 18 lifts are extremely well
placed, and the trails are designed with ideal fall line and no run
outs. When you want to move across the resort, don’t push your way
past the next lift pod. Ski to the base of it, ride up and you will
always be getting more good vertical. You can waste a lot of time and
energy sliding horizontally when you could be capturing vertical. I
know this sounds like common sense, but we spoke to and watched many
lemmings all weekend doing the “SundayRiver shuffle”. Some of the
traverses are slightly uphill, that is negative skiing, which should
be avoided at all costs.
Here is one approach to maximize vertical and avoid crowds. Out of the
South Ridge base area get on the detachable quad to the Spruce Peak
triple. A great warm up run on the long, sweeping descent of American
Express to Overdraft past the North Peak Lodge delivers you to a
choice between blue square Paradigm or Quantum Leap, the black diamond
alternative, offering great glimpses of Jordan Bowl and Aurora Peak,
as you ski down to the Aurora Peak quad. At the top of Aurora you will
discover some of the best advanced-intermediate stuff around. Northern
Lights to Firestar is a great run to arrive at the very popular Jordan
Bowl. As this speedy quad comes in for a landing at the summit be
ready for an eyeful of the majestic Mt. Washington to the Southeast
and sister Sugarloaf to the North!
While you are in
Jordan Bowl, ski ‘em all. Lollapalooza is one of the
longest, prettiest runs featuring 1.5 miles of mellow cruising and
awesome views. Rogue Angel and Excalibur are both rolling fun trails,
impeccably groomed as a rule, as is most of Sunday River. iCaramba!
brings back the classic, narrow, bumped-up, under the lift challenge
for the exhibitionists with elastic knees. For the tree-hugger, Blind
Ambition is a fun and gentle glade with plenty of wide-open spaces to
maneuver. Then move on to Wizard’s Gulch for wilder glades.
Once you have “done the bowl”, travel to OZ. Interesting to note that
atop OZ you are at the highest Sunday River elevation of 3,140ft. This
trail network is a return to classic New England skiing. Emerald City
and Lost Princess are dotted with birch groves, while tree lovers
should try double black diamond glades called Flying Monkeys,. Ruby
Palace is a true lift line trail for the hard-core. Looking for open
space? Try Eureka, located in between all this wild glade action. No
Dorothy you are not in Kansas anymore, unless you opt for the traverse
out of here that is so named accessed from Cowardly Lion. Kansas is
one of those flat trails previously mentioned so take a little speed
and you will still have a nice run ahead down Northern Lights or
Airglow to take you back into the Aurora Peak Basin.
Now you have experienced the popular Jordan Bowl and OZ, and you are
well ahead of the crowds. Time to explore Aurora Peak some more. Take
an exhilarating trip down Vortex, which is often bumped up, with quite
a pitch, I might add. Lights Out is the exit ramp from this basin, but
I recommend another great run like Airglow, which has a serious grade.
If you crave more steeps, bear right onto Black Hole which some argue
is the steepest section on all of Sunday River. A pretty slip through
the woods on Celestial Glade will round out your Aurora experience
before you ride up the Quantum Leap triple and bid farewell to Aurora
& Jordan Bowl. No tears please, there is plenty more great skiing in
store for you.
From atop North Peak, take a long, gentle cruiser down
Dream Maker or strut your stuff on 3-D , the only intermediate machine
made bump run of its kind (a great confidence builder). Ride the North
Peak Triple and you may find yourself smelling the barbecue on the
sunny deck at North Peak Lodge. Run count by lunch may be as many as
15. A “legal day” already. Another old skiing proverb, lunch early, so
you may ski while others wait in cafeteria line.
The Barker quad is a great destination during the traditional noon
lunch hour. This original site of Barker Mountain Ski Area is now
serviced by a detachable quad, which launches you across a snowmaking
water pond. If you are wondering, yes a few unlucky skiers plunge to
their wetness here every year. There is much exciting terrain to carve
on Barker including black diamond and usually groomed Right Stuff and
double black diamond Top Gun (often groomed) and double diamond, never
groomed, lift line Agony (the name says it all). Last Tango is
acclaimed to be the biggest, widest glade trail here, it gets tighter
if you hang in there, but you can always bail on to Right Stuff.
You should also ride the Locke Mountain triple, originating from the
same base as the Barker quad, it gets you to another grand vista.
“Those little ski areas in the distance are Mount Abram and Shawnee
Peak. Tough to ski 20 new & different trails in a day there!” After a
great cruiser down the wide-open Sunday Punch, try T2 or Bim’s Whim
for a fun little excursion down to Snowbound and you are finally at
the legendary White Heat area.
Still
acclaimed to be the “longest, steepest, widest, lift-serviced trail in
the East”, riding up the lift watching skiers bash the bumps is often
more fun than skiing down. If you take a left off the lift, you are in
NFT, No Fall Terrain, and this is no joke. A fall here and the ensuing
slide can have disastrous results on terrain this steep. You will
notice how the Ski Patrol hang out at the top of these slopes. A
coincidence? I think not. Obsession has an action packed blend of
steeps and compressions or Salvation to skier’s right, both are better
choices for the timid. White Heat has a nearly 70% pitch that is
threatening and constant. I chose the groomed half of the trail, while
my husband explodes in the enormous bumps.
Another super steep
challenge awaits you on Shockwave, the farthest east trail at Sunday
River, this is another true double black diamond. For some gnarly
glades, try Hardball or Chutzpah, which was selected as one of the 10
most extreme runs in the East by Skiing magazine. You have now skied 8
mountain peaks across 3 miles from West to East. When you are weary
from White Cap, head for Heats Off to Tempest under the quad. It is
fun to watch the snowboarders in their element, the competition-grade
half-pipe near the base of the Tempest lift.
If the
North Peak lodge did not tempt you for lunch, The Shipyard at the White
Cap base area is a great spot for a burger and beer, and ahhh- table service. If you
are up for some mellow cruising, point them down Moonstruck or
Starburst and you will wish you were staying at the Summit Hotel. You
could be home now, soaking in that slopeside heated pool. For more
adventure, take the Tempest quad to Wildfire or Cascade back to Barker
Mountain.
If you
want to end on a lazy note, the Three Mile Trail is a less than
vertical experience from the top of Barker Mountain to sauntering
Dream Maker past the North Peak Lodge all the way back to the South
Ridge base. Use some caution in the South Ridge base area, as this is
the learning area, a confusing network of green trails scattered with
beginners and ski school classes and more advanced skiers zooming to
their destinations.
An important note: Sunday River snowmakers tend to make a nice layer
of fresh powder on a few select trails each night. Seek a snow report
or consult a knowledgeable Sunday River Patroller or Ambassador for
the scoop. Skiing this freshly made powder is like nothing else you
have experienced in you skiing lifetime. They call it Sunday River
Snow and it deserves a name of its own, like talcum powder on a baby’s
bottom. The Gods intended snow to be this good.
There is a great day in a nutshell. These are not steadfast rules,
just one skier’s way to get maximum vertical and maximum fun from your
ski day. There are some great runs that will have you thinking, “I
could ski that all day”, but around the next corner and up the next
quad is yet another assortment of exceptional terrain. Forrest Gump
would find Sunday River is like a box of chocolates. Get to know the
mountain, and have at it.
Hot Trail Picks
Best Trails by Ability
Long, Mellow Cruisers
Lollapalooza
Dream Maker
Moonstruck
Fun and Friendly Intermediate Runs
Too many to name, 3 of my personal favorites:
American Express
Sunday Punch
Rogue Angel
Great Steeps (usually groomed)
Shockwave
Airglow to Black Hole
White Heat (skier’s right)
Wild Bumps
iCarumba!
Agony
White Heat (skier’s left)
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BACK
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- All Photography by
Greg Burke
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