Alberta & British Columbia Canada Feature Story
 
“Hot Springs, Cool Skiing”
 
This Cover story was featured in Interval World Magazine, Fall 2006

 
Deciding where to ski is a mountainous task. The choices, like ice cream, range from soft-serve hills to towering high sundaes loaded with chunks and ripples that daunt you from first bite. Do you prefer big bold flavors or are you just looking for scoops of cool thrills?

 
Whatever your preference, the Canadian Rockies should tempt every skier and - with its big-mountain terrain, awesome scenery, and roaming wildlife - even non-skiers. To top off your alpine escapades (or snowmobiling, ice skating, snowboarding – the list goes on), the region bubbles with the largest natural hot springs in Canada. This spectacular landscape of mystical hot springs was first explored by the Kutenai Indians and later discovered by hunters and traders traveling along the Columbia River Valley in the 1800s. The warm mineral waters were thought to possess magical healing powers then; they certainly still soothe skiers after a cool day on the nearby slopes.

For neophytes, the hot springs are large manmade pools filled continually with naturally warm mineral water. It’s quite surreal to lounge in 100F water as you cast an eye upward at the snowcapped Rocky Mountains.

Fairmont and Radium Hot Springs are worthwhile base camps for alpine adventure. Fairmont Hot Springs is home to the largest hot springs and its own convenient on-property family ski hill, with 13 gentle trails serviced by a triple chair and a surface lift.

The alpine ski area is open from mid-December to early-April –when you can ski, golf and swim in the same day. The Fairmont’s ski school gives lessons to those just learning to turn. If you prefer Nordic, skinny skiers can glide along 9-miles of tracked trails around the resort. Lift tickets include same-day passes to the Hot Springs, where you can melt your day away.

Just 20-minutes north of Fairmont is the resort area of Radium Hot Springs, which has its own hot springs (this region just percolates with thermal pools). With nearby Lake Windermere, it’s a great place for ice-skating or cross-country skiing.

A hop, skip and a ski jump away

The real skiing begins when you daytrip to surrounding resorts; there are six major ski areas within a snowball’s throw (or more specifically a two-hour drive). Keep the camera handy as you drive, because your about to explore gorgeous Canadian landscape, and your sure to spot majestic Bighorn Sheep grazing the hillsides.

A word each of Canadian caution: the wildlife is approachable but not advised – these animals are not pets, and not meant to be pet if you treasure your appendages (you can often find antlered animals on the menu if you want direct contact). On the other hand, the British Columbian people are very genuine and proud - so be receptive to that exchange.

The closest big mountain venue for experienced skiers is Panorama (40-minutes from Fairmont Hot Springs). For a world-class ski experience, day skiers start with a gondola ride over the centerpiece slopeside village (designed by Intrawest). Panorama has expanded tremendously in recent years and now offers 2,800-acres, with a jaw-dropping 4,000-foot vertical, but it is still a relative unknown. Skiers will find plenty of pleasant cruisers on the lower mountain Mile1 and mid-mountain Champagne Express quads. Experts heading to the 7,800-foot summit are rewarded with breathtaking panoramic views before dropping into the steep and deep of Taynton Bowl. Panorama is well worth at least a day’s visit.

If you are looking for an even higher dose of adrenaline, RK Heli operates daily heli-skiing from Panorama. This is a great way to sample unbelievable untracked “pow” and get a spectacular bird’s eye helicopter ride through the Purcell Mountains. For about $600 a day, it is relatively affordable since most heli-ski operations require you to commit to a week’s worth of pricey powder skiing.

Further to the Northeast, 1.5 hour drive from Fairmont Hot Springs, serious skiers should put Kicking Horse Mountain Resort on their skiing and riding list. This biggest new ski resort is staking its claim - kicking up the extreme ski scene in North America. Your day at Kicking Horse starts skiing down to the lift from the unusually convenient day parking. The lower mountain Catamount quad offers more docile trails, whereas the 12-minute gondola ascent to CPR Ridge is aptly named for the intimidating steeps it serves. With 4,133-foot vertical drop, and 2,750-acres, Kicking Horse is nosing its way into the stable of thoroughbred ski areas. Kids will get excited about skiing by the world’s largest enclosed grizzly bear refuge. Of course, the resident bear, Boo, is in hibernation and should be left to his long winter nap.

A jaunt across the B.C. border to the province of Alberta and you will find more top rated skiing in Banff, 1.75 hour from Fairmont. Lake Louise and Sunshine are two of the most scenic ski resorts anywhere, hands down, binoculars up. Sunshine is unique for its gondola ride up from the base to where the lofty 3,514’ vertical skiing begins. At Sunshine you can ski across the Continental Divide (a novelty), and find groomed open spaces among its 3,358-acres. Or check in with patrol for access to the extreme chutes of Delirium Dive (as steep as it sounds) where avalanche peeps and shovels are required. Sun-seekers should head up the comfy Wawa Quad (which is mellow-like its name).

Lake Louise Mountain Resort is gorgeous and grand from its stately post and beam Lodge of the Ten Peaks to its 4,200-acres (3,250’ vertical) and wide-open “Powder Bowl” off the Top of the World six-passenger lift. Lake Louise perennially makes most skiers’ best-scenery lists, and it also has one of the longest ski seasons, from early November to mid-May.

 
To the south of Radium and Fairmont Hot Springs, Kimberly (1 hour) and Fernie (2 hours) are two more Canadian ski resorts to consider.

Kimberley is a hit with families because of its impressive Ski and Snowboard School and the long gentle runs on much of the 1,800-acres (2,465’ vertical), but families can also find exciting snow stashes amidst their beautiful glade trails.

Fernie has 107 ski trails on 2,800-acres with a 2,816’ vertical drop. Local legend runs deep like the natural snowfall, 29-feet annually. Natives claim that “The Griz” roams the peaks and fires his musket into the clouds to produce their notorious powder. Fernie has earned a sweet spot amongst fanatical freeskiers because of Lizard Bowl. Otherwise, Fernie’s remote setting in the lower eastern corner of B.C. seems to keep the crowds away.

All these world-class ski resorts are sizeable enough to spend at week at each, and definitely worth the travel utilizing centrally located Fairmont or Radium Hot Springs as your home base. You may find one week is not nearly enough to uncover the smorgasbord of downhill delights, and phenomenal scenery at every turn, in this snowy paradise of Canada. Do your best and know that like a dessert buffet - you can always come back for the rest. And did I mention that hot spring soak at day’s end?
 
Fairmont Hot Springs, British Columbia
Radium Hot Springs Chamber of Commerce, Radium Hot Springs, British Columbia
Tourism British Columbia
 

 

All Photography by Greg Burke
 
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