Maine

Saddleback's Future:

Family Resort or Hideout for the Rich
 

This story was Published in The Maine Sunday Telegram

Published: December 8, 2002

Sotheby’s refers to it as, “one of the largest, most unique land holdings ever available in the East – with world-class outdoor recreational opportunities.” Hard to believe the $8 million dollar listing they are describing is humble Saddleback ski area. This western Maine ski mountain looks every bit its age of four decades, a little rusty and wrinkled, with lots of laugh lines and stories to tell.

Saddleback is far from fancy, not to mention – just plain far. Saddleback is 125 miles northeast of Portland. Some Maine skiers have never heard of it, and few have made the winter trek along the rugged Route 4 to sample this Rangeley-based ski mountain. Most skiers headed this way gravitate toward the Loaf. The seven-mile access road up to Saddleback can warrant its own black diamond trail status.

But the folks at Sotheby’s think this 8,300-acre property, “could represent the ultimate retreat for a select group of individuals.” Included in the realty’s prospectus is a Yellowstone Club article. So what has been homespun local ski turf for over forty years is being presented as a potential playground for big spenders.

“It would be a shame if this resort went private,” said Jeff Merriam of Portsmouth, N.H. when interviewed on the mountain last March.

There are a few private ski areas that have opened in recent years. The Yellowstone Club is a private Montana ski resort encompassing 13,400-acres with four mountains, a golf course and an alpine village. Members buy in for $250,000 initiation and also must purchase a posh slopeside home, plus show proof of at least $3 million in assets.

“The private club aspect is not something we are trying to sell, “ said Tom McAllister, Saddleback’s general manager of 34 years. “I suppose we might attract a kingdom buyer though.”

There are some frightening parallels between the Yellowstone Club and the diamond in the rough Saddleback. Saddleback’s 8,300-acre estate includes the current 500-acre ski area with two double chairs, three T-bars and an enduring wood frame base lodge. The price tag also includes shorefront on a pristine lake and the surrounding White Horn mountain bowl of 4,000’ peaks, all zoned for recreational development.

In the hands of an eager developer, this could become a multi-mountain ski resort to rival the biggest in the East. Or it could be the next winter hideout for the wealthy.

On a more local and tangible scale is former Round Top in Vermont. The defunct ski area was sold in 1997 and reopened as a private ski mountain two years later, now referred to as Bear Creek Mountain Club. Bear Creek members pay $6,000 each as initiation, and $600 a year in club dues. Bear Creek is not exclusive however; lift tickets can be purchased by the public until membership is filled, and on a space available basis thereafter.

For now, Saddleback is privately owned, open to the public, and for sale. It is also a must ski mountain. With 1,830-ft. vertical drop and a summit elevation of 4,160-ft., it is the second highest ski mountain in Maine, with the highest base elevation (2,450-ft.) in the Northeast. The old-fashioned lifts serve some unbeatable natural terrain. There is 50% snowmaking capability, but the ski area relies heavily on Mother Nature’s gifts.

The Surrey Double chair is intermediate nirvana, with gentle trails like Goldrush and Panhandler. The long Stagecoach Double chair accesses pleasing cruisers including the lift line El Hombre and White Stallion. For more gutsy choices, Gunslinger, Silver Bullet and Rough Rider are woodsy and unpredictable.

For a challenging ascent, try the upper mountain Wells Fargo T-Bar. I should mention this is a gauntlet for snowboarders. I watched several skilled riders dragged up portions of the T-bar’s steep path. If I had laughed at them, I would be eating my hat, since my daughter and I were victims to this treacherous lift too.

If you cling tightly during the 975-feet of vertical and make it to the rime-covered summit, you arrive in black diamond territory. Powder Keg, Bronco Buster and Rustlers Revenge all offer serious fall line. I found Nightmare Glades to be aptly named.

The most talked about trail at Saddleback is Mule Skinner. It is a rite of passage for New England ski nuts. First there is the long traverse to skiers’ right (or a hike for snowboarders who survived the t-bar). Then there is a steep, narrow, goat path of a trail desperately in need of summer grooming. Jumping stumps and saplings adds to the thrill of skiing out in the middle of who knows where. A concluding long traverse back toward the base of the t-bar allows you to gather your wits and contemplate doing it again.

For prime viewing, and less heart thumping, Cliff Hanger to Lazy River winds more gently down the mountain with outstanding views of Saddleback Lake, Rangeley Lake, and the surrounding Western Maine mountain range.

The Base Lodge is rustic but efficient and homey, with a cafeteria, skier services, a downstairs rental and ski shop. After the lifts stop, the upstairs Painted Pony rocks with cheerful skiers and patrollers reminiscing their adventures over a brew or two.

This ski area is so unpopulated, by Sunday afternoon’s Lollipop Race you feel like you have met everyone. “It would be great to stay family friendly, and not be turned into a Sunday River or Sugarloaf, or become private,” said Glenn Stewart, a lift operator of 25 years (locally known as Batman). “We know all the kids names and can tell them where their parents are on the mountain.”

On a March weekend last season, I found fresh tracks all day long, thanks to a late season dump of eight fluffy inches, and about 100 skiers all tolled on the mountain that day.

Some say this mountain is prime for capital injection. Others say a high-speed lift or two would devastate the atmosphere, bringing in the masses, upping the prices, and altering its style.

“The mountain has not changed in 25 years,” said Bob Gross of Yarmouth. “We would like to see it remain a family mountain. Saddleback does not need high-speed lifts because there just are not that many people here. But I would like to see expansion of the available terrain beyond Mule Skinner.”

Owner Katherine Breen said, “We are encouraged by the visions some prospective buyers have shared. Some of the creative ideas are very exciting for Saddleback and for New England.”

The current owners were stalled from making improvements for years, due to a lengthy land dispute with the Appalachian Club.

“We have a deep love of this mountain,” said Breen. “We feel we have been good stewards during our ownership.”

Saddleback plans to open for the season Dec. 26, a month later than usual. If you have not skied this classic ski area, you should travel back in time to experience this unique Maine alpine treasure. And you should go soon, since the future of this ski area is uncertain.

Conditions:
My family and I skied Killington Thanksgiving week with over 100 trails. It was mid-winter skiing, including fresh powder conditions. Definitely the best early skiing in years. Here in Maine, sister resorts Sunday River and Sugarloaf have dozens of trails open, and are blowing snow with great guns. Shawnee Peak and Squaw have both opened for weekend operation.
 

 

All Photography by Greg Burke

 

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