"Quebec's Calling"
Fall line, fine food and flair
over the border!
New England Ski Journal
By Heather Burke
Sure, gas prices are high. But airfare is still higher, especially
when you are looking to book a big ski trip. A winter jaunt to Europe
requires far more Euros than a full gas tank or two to drive to nearby
resorts. If you are twitching to travel beyond the basics, a skip
across the border may be just the order.
J’adore (translation - I love) skiing in
Quebec, it
is so Continental, while still being relatively convenient. You can be
in another country in half a day’s drive, and US currency is welcomed
and worth almost 20% more than Canadian coin. Whether you are on a
Quebec quest for romance or a family foray to the “foreign,” there is
much in store next door. Quebec has over 90 ski areas near Québec City
and Montréal (in the Laurentians and the Eastern Townships).
To discover the best of Quebec skiing, you can head northeast to the
Quebec City region or steer Northwest an hour beyond Montreal to the
Laurentians, both regions offer a skiing experience worthy of the
travel time.
Quebec City is a winter wonderland; this historic riverfront city
celebrates the cold season with fantastic festivals, plus
extraordinary dining and lodging you read about in glossy travel
magazines. Making Quebec City your base, you can ski three major ski
resorts all within 45-minutes; Mont Sainte Anne, Le Massif, and
Stoneham, and return to this entertaining city each evening.
Kids will like Stoneham, this ski resort has definitely captured the youth
culture with the best terrain parks in the region. Adults will like
that this 4-peak ski area is just 20-minutes from downtown Quebec, and
it has designated family zones for starting your small fries on the
slopes. And Stoneham’s night skiing is the largest in Canada.
At
Mont Sainte Anne, kids will find
adventure in the trees of Le Forêt Noire and La Forêt Enchantée.
Sainte-Anne has added some enticing, but still family-friendly, glades
and family zones in recent years. If your kids are like mine, they
also love conquering World Cup caliber trails like La Crête and Super
S. Mont Sainte-Anne’s base to summit gondola is swift and snuggly,
even when shared with French strangers in fancy ski attire. Adults in
love will be inspired by the panorama atop this 3-sided mountain, then
lured to the après ski in the slopeside village.
Le
Massif is an upside down ski mountain, so children may be
fascinated by starting the ski day at the summit, and ending their day
with a lift ride back to the top …a novelty, n’est pas?! Le Massif is
a relatively new ski area, having received its first ski lifts just
over a decade ago. Despite Le Massif’s unusual summit parking, the
resort holds claim to the longest vertical drop east of the Rockies.
Le Massif’s high-end terrain, Le Charlevoix Trail, serves as training
steeps for the Canadian Ski Team. The former owner of Cirque Du Soliel
operates the ski area, and it is very well run, from the manicured
slopes to the posh lodges with incredible views of the mighty St
Lawrence Seaway that flows by the base of the mountain.
Epicurean adults will find the “ski area food” at Le Massif is above
and beyond. Whether you dine at the elegant top lodge or the spacious
scenic base building, the fresh culinary treats like escargot and pâté
are superb, with a side of St. Lawrence scenery.
If you visit the capital city of Quebec during February’s Winter
Carnival, you children will be delighted to tour the Ice Castle, and
wave to Bonhomme – the giant marshmallow-like mascot. Grown up “kids
at heart” will find Quebec City to be très romantic, whether it is
dining by candlelight in a charming French café or snuggling under
thick blankets during a horse drawn carriage tour of the fascinating
fortress of Vieux Quebec. A ski trip to Quebec delivers a lot more
than just downhill fun.
On
the flipside of the province,
Tremblant is
the biggest ski area in the Laurentians with 2,000’ vertical and 94
runs flanking all four sides. But it is Tremblant’s enchanted resort
village that makes it a gem. Families traveling from the states are
discovering this self-contained resort is worth the journey an hour
and a half past Montreal, and warrants a week’s stay. Tremblant Resort
was developed by famed Intrawest, and the result is an idyllic
European slopeside village, with all the modern conveniences like
underground parking, an indoor water park for kids, and condominium
lodging aplenty.
Art
lovers will appreciate Tremblant’s architecture; the pedestrian
village is absolutely charming, colorful and meticulously mapped out.
From one of many lodging properties, you can stroll cobblestone
sidewalks to the slopes and gondola, to 42 fabulous restaurants, pubs
and cafes, and some very chi chi boutiques. Kids at Tremblant will
like riding the speedy and scenic gondola and cabriolet lifts, and
ending each day at the Wilderness themed indoor Waterpark complete
with ropes swings and tree slides…very Disney-like. Tremblant has the
soup to nuts menu - great skiing, an animated village for après, and
plenty of entertainment for the kids- even a movie theatre.
Just a few of the dozen other ski resorts in the
Laurentians include
Gray Rocks which has a private ski club atmosphere suited for young
families, Mont Saint Sauveur which is très popular with the Montreal
set for day and night skiing, Mont Gabriel, Avila and Mont Blanc.
The Eastern Townships are the closest to the states,
Owl’s Head,
Sutton,
Bromont and
Orford. While these hills don’t have the acclaim
or the vertical of Tremblant or Saint Anne, you can find some lodging
and lift deals, French charm on a smaller scale and good “starter” ski
schools. Orford, with over 1,500’ vertical, is home to Olympic
freestyle Champ Nico Fountain. Similar-sized
Owl’s Head resort is near
beautiful Lake Memphremagog.
Sutton is noted for its extensive glade
terrain. Bromont expands this season with a new high-speed quad and
additional terrain on its 1,100’ vertical.
You may find yourself in familiar company while exploring these French
Canadian slopes, as Americans are discovering these Quebec resorts in
droves. Don’t be surprised when you fill a gondola with other
vacationing families from the states. Still, the Quebec culture is
distinct and captivating for kids and parents alike. Winter is a
lifestyle in these northern parts, joie d’hiver – the joy of winter!
You are sure to have snow and good skiing, and you may learn some new
French phrases, and partake in a few new off-slope pastimes like dog
sledding. So mush to Canada.
Clues and Cautions for your Canadian Quest:
Bring documentation for each traveler for border crossing: passports,
photo license, or birth certificates…
Fill your SUV or mini-van before you cross the border, health care may
be free in Canada – but gasoline is très cher.
Be prepared to “parlais Francais” as part of the experience, but rest
assured that English is understood and spoken at all these resorts
when necessary.
Keep receipts of all the taxes you pay in Canada (GST & PST) and get a
form at the border or at
www.visitorsrefund.com, so you can claim a refund post trip.
Pack your cold weather gear; it can be chilly as you head further
north.
