New Hampshire

Bretton Woods - Bigger and Better than ever
 
New Hampshire ToDo Magazine
February 2006

By Heather Burke
Photography By Greg Burke

 
 
 
If it’s good enough for Bode Miller, then it is good enough for me. New Hampshire’s largest ski area is where Bode serves as poster boy and Director of Skiing. If you haven’t skied Bretton Woods in a while, it’s time to take another look - even if it takes Bode’s stardom to draw you there.

What was once called Medicare Mountain for its tame terrain and aesthetic views now offers something for almost everyone with new trails, glades, terrain parks, speedy lifts, a beautiful base-loge and even a ski train.

Bretton Woods has grown significantly during the past decade to become NH’s largest ski resort, eclipsing Attitash in 1999. It has always been a photogenic spot, surrounded by Mount Washington, The Presidentials and Crawford Notch. While the views obviously haven’t changed, the venue has. The ski area now sprawls to the west and east, tripling the resort’s original 1973 size, and opening up new vistas for skiers and riders while tapping into more challenging terrain. Director of Operations Chris Ellms said, “We’re excited about the ongoing growth at Bretton Woods.”

We revisited Bretton Woods this December. While few other New England ski resorts were open, Bretton Woods had made plenty of snow with their impressive snowmaking system. In fact, Bretton Woods now boasts the longest ski season in New Hampshire, a trend started in 2003 when the resort opened Nov. 9 and did not close until May 4.

Arriving at the Base Lodge, which has grown leaps and bounds in the past five years, we were greeted by cheery Mountain Hosts, who actually helped unload our skis. My kids both commented on how staff was “everywhere,” my daughter was a bit spooked that, “they are all smiling.” Must be something in the White Mountain spring water, I told her.

My kids aren’t the only ones to notice this attention to detail. Ski Magazine referred to Bretton Woods as the “Deer Valley of New Hampshire” in the October 2005 issue. If you know Deer Valley, you know it is the most posh ski resort on the planet with service nearing perfection. The owners of Bretton Woods I am certain did not mind this comparison since they emphasize staff friendliness in their extensive training.

The resort is owned by four NH families, the Bedor and Presby families act as on site managers. The partners’ goal was to reconsolidate the lodging and amenities under one mega-resort umbrella. The quest began in 1983 with the purchase of the Cog Railway, next the Mount Washington Hotel was purchased at auction in ’91, the Golf Course and Nordic ski area followed in ’93, and the Ski Area and Sport Center plus 950 acres were acquired in ’97 – which completed the re-consolidation of the original resort.

We had skied Bretton Woods before the addition of the high-speed quad on West Mountain (added in 2001) and the Rosebrook Summit expansion (2003-2004 season), and always found the intermediate boulevards to be groomed to pleasant perfection, framed by the outstanding view of Mount Washington. But we didn’t find anything particularly challenging, nothing to get your heart pumping. My son loves steeps and my daughter loves to ski in the trees.

Well, it seems they read our minds, by carving out some steeper trails on both Rosebrook and West Mountains, like the short but sweet pitch on Little Tuckerman served by the West Mountain Express. New black-diamond runs reached by the Rosebrook high-speed quad include trails that Bode Miller helped design like Snake, Devil’s Den, and his namesake Bode’s Run under the lift – show off. To satisfy my daughter’s glade craving, West Mountain is sprinkled with beautiful birch grove glades, and Rosebrook Canyon to the east offers nearly a dozen more unique tree-lined runs.

The resort now offers 101 trails, serviced by 9 lifts, 4 of which are high-speed quads. And there is more on tap, according to Ellms, with future plans for more trails and a lift on Mt. Stickney, east of Mt. Rosebrook.

Andy Norton, Assistant Mountain Manager said, “We want to make sure our guests have the best ski experience possible, from the snow quality to the grooming, the lifts and the friendliness of everyone here.” N.H. native Norton grew up in the ski biz; his father Bill ran Cannon for years.

For a splendidly scenic lunch spot, get a window table at the Top O’Quad Restaurant. A warm-up break inside the authentic Cog railcar at the summit of West Mountain is another novelty.

For 2006, snowshoe trails on Bretton Woods are lift-accessible so they (and cross-country skiers) can enjoy the upper elevation snow and incredible views without the hike. Bretton Woods also launches two new terrain parks, to total three, loaded with hits and tricks on Rosebrook Meadow and the Range View trail. Night owls can ski under the lights on 4 trails on weekends and holidays.

Bretton Woods still shines brightly as a place for learning families. The Learning Center Quad is free if you want to learn to turn on your own, or get your youngster out for “first tracks.”

Next door to the expansive base lodge is the Learning Center where you can get professional “Red Carpet” ski instruction and set your kids up at the Hobbit Ski School. Babes In the Woods Nursery is for not-yet-skiing children 2 months to 5 years. I took my kids here when they were wee-ones (admittedly, a while ago). It was great then – and looks like it has only gotten better – exceptional staff, organized daily programs. They even host themed kids’ après-ski parties so Mom and Dad can enjoy live entertainment and a toddy in the Slopeside Pub.

Owner Cathy Bedor said, “We also encourage skiers to go over to the Hotel for their après ski and think of it as an extended base lodge, not just for hotel guests. Sitting by the grand fireplace in the lobby or watching the alpenglow on Mount Washington from our Rosebrook Lounge is a glorious way to end a ski day. We think of the Hotel as the classiest base lodge around.”

Take it from our experience, once you enter the winter wonderland of the 1902 Mount Washington Hotel, you will want to stay… for cocktails in the Princess Lounge, for dinner and dancing in the Ballroom, for the live band in the speakeasy Cave, for a romantic sleigh ride around the resort, or just to say you slept in a palace. The historic Hotel was winterized and opened for its first ski guests in 1999. It is one of the most grand ski hotels in the country.

While our family is not nuts about Nordic (preferring the gravitational pull of downhill skiing) we were nothing but impressed by Bretton Woods’ Ski Touring Center. Entering the posh Nordic Center, built in 2002, you immediately recognize that skinny skiing can be refined, not rustic like your average lean-to. This beautiful lodge serves as the Golf Club House in the summer - Bode comes to golf too. 100-kilometers of Nordic trails surround the Hotel property, 1,770 acres – much of the network is within White Mountain National Forest.

And finally, you can ride the 1869 Cog Railway and ski alongside the train on Mount Washington as part of your Bretton Woods’ experience (The Cog opened for skiing last winter, another historical first). See, Bode knew a good thing when he joined Bretton Woods in 2003. While the resort continues to get bigger and better, Bode just keeps getting faster. Make tracks to Bretton Woods this season.

Need To Know To Do:
Bretton Woods Resort
Route 302, Bretton Woods, NH
Phone: 603-278-3320, Lodging 800-258-0330
Vertical Drop: 1,500’
Skiable Terrain: 434 acres
9 Lifts, 101 Trails
92% snowmakings.  
 
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All Photography by Greg Burke
 
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