Think Big, Think Mammoth!

New England Ski Journal
April 2005

By Heather Burke

In 1938 Dave McCoy sold his Harley for $85 to build a rope tow. What started as a passionate Californian’s dream, is now one of the top ski resorts in the country.

Californians seem to have written the guidebook on how to play, and Mammoth is their #1 winter wonderland. This top rated ski resort is located in the center of the big state that boasts 300 days of sunshine a year.

Skiers like sun, but prefer snow. Mammoth’s snow comes in delightful dumps throughout their 200-day season (182 last winter), averaging 400 inches annually. During our late April visit, we skied on 12-foot base depths, got a foot of fresh overnight, followed by a day of sun and then more of the aforementioned powder - so goes the California cycle.

Back to the history lesson. In 1941, McCoy ran a portable rope tow up Mammoth, a clever and cost-effective way to reach the best snow since it could be moved about the sunny slopes. Now 50 years after McCoy’s first permanent tow was installed, Mammoth has 27 lifts of a much more sophisticated and permanent nature with an uphill capacity nearing Whistler, British Columbia. In fact, at Mammoth you can ride from base to summit via speedy scenic 3,100’ vertical gondola. From the 11,053’ summit, you can ski in all directions, accessing the entire 3,500 vast acres.

Mammoth should not be lumped in with the Sierras of Lake Tahoe. The base elevation at Mammoth is 8,000’, that’s equivalent to Squaw Valley’s summit in Tahoe.

Mammoth is monstrous as its name implies, with multiple faces. Skiers, and a high percentage of snowboarders at this California snow spot, are treated to a giant natural Terrain Park with peaks, bowls, cliffs and curves (plus a myriad of the man-made variety of hits and pipes).

Surrounded by desert (and a 3 hour drive from Reno airport), Mammoth is influenced by dry air from So Cal and colder precipitation of No. Cal. Such a weather convergence equals abundant snow, a long sunny season, and wild High Sierra wind. The blustery tendency is both a curse and a contributor. Gondola closure can be an issue. But dyed in the wool Mammoth locals will tell you that fresh snow blows in almost nightly, keeping the slopes “buffed” as they put it. Snowdrifts fill in the mogul fields and give a fresh coat of pow – sometimes between heart thumping runs.

Mammoth goes shoulder to shoulder with the biggest and burliest in the ski biz. The above-tree line bowls of Dave’s and Scotty’s offer the vastness of Vail with the pitch of Snowbird. Cliff lined chutes of Hangman’s and Huevos Grandes will satisfy adrenaline seekers just like the Couloir at Big Sky. The stunning natural beauty of Dry Creek reminds me of an off-piste adventure at Val D’Isere in France, and Avalanche Chutes 1-3 can hold their candles up to Alta for steeps.

If you time your day – you can always be in golden California sunshine. And if scenery is your bit, this central Cal resort overlooks the vast Sierras and stunning Yosemite National Park, with shimmering lakes below towering century old pines. For on-mountain lodges, The Mill became our family hitching post, but the mid-mountain gondi building, McCoy’s is central with all the essentials plus Parallax – with scenic sit down service. Keep in mind that there are five base areas, so study your Mammoth map.

Teens gravitate toward the graduated terrain parks prominently posted around the mountain. The littlest schussers love the mascot Wooly Mammoth, if you don’t bump into the furry character – then at least snap a photo with the massive bronze likeness near the Mammoth Mountain Inn at the original base area.

Thanks to Intrawest and $500 million, Mammoth is undergoing a resort renaissance with the magic wand of the developer that transformed Tremblant, Copper and Whistler, to their festive, full service status. The posh new Village at Mammoth is close to town, and connected to the mountain by a 15-passenger gondola – so while its not ski in ski out – you slip on your ski boots in the comforts of your condo and ride a lift to start and end your day.

After skiing, you can walk the Village’s shops, pubs and restaurants, or hit the outdoor pool and soak up the last of the west coast rays. A short drive or convenient shuttle to town gets you to supermarkets, local ski shops and some spicy cheap Mexican eats.

If you are looking for a late season ski spot, Mammoth should be your California dream destination. With the entire mountain covered in Sierra snow through May, you can make tracks at this huge high elevation area after eastern resorts close their last chair.

We combined our family trip with a visit to California Disney and Hollywood, flying in and out of L.A. The direct airfare deal to this huge hub offset the five-hour drive across the desert to Mammoth’s skiing. If time is more budget constrained, fly to San Fran or Reno.

You don’t have to sell your Harley for a spring ski trip to Mammoth. Late season deals abound, and just like your Florida-bound buddies, you will get your spring-break sun (albeit a telltale turtleneck tan) and superb season finale skiing.

Mammoth can be reached at or 1-760-934-0745, or1-800-MAMMOTH

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All Photography by Greg Burke
 
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