MAINE

Maine Mountains for Downeast family ski fun

This story was Published in The New England Ski Journal
Published: February 2004

By Heather Burke


While Maine is on the map for lobster and lighthouses, the vast majority of the state is inland lakes and mountains. There is a strong contingent of Mainers just passionate about skiing the Pine Tree State’s summits and their reasons go far beyond pure Yankee stubbornness.

Maine has 18 ski areas, from full service resorts worthy of a week’s vacation, to happy hills with one lift and a crock-pot buffet in the lodge. Families can take their pick from humble to humbling when it comes to Maine’s skiable terrain and slopeside spots.

Sunday River, with eight interconnected mountain peaks, speedy lifts and “super power” snowmaking, definitely has all your downhill desires covered. Large enough for you to get a little lost, there is terrain for everyone in your gang. 128 trails range from humbling steeps of White Heat, Shock Wave and Vortex, to South Ridge’s mellow learning basin.

Recently the River ramped-up its après ski amusements for vacationing families. The White Cap Fun Center is an after hours playground for kids with snow tubing, a lit terrain park, ice-skating, plus an indoor arcade. Parents can seek refuge inside Tango Mary’s– while keeping tabs on the kids.

Another family diversion is a visit to the limited but lively town of Bethel, to catch a flick or dinner, reached by car or free shuttle bus. But the number one reason to come to Sunday River is clearly to ski.

For overnight digs, families can opt for a suite at either of two slopeside Grand hotels on opposite ends of the sprawling resort. Both have spectacular outdoor heated pools and restaurants. Or you can rent one of many mountainside condos – which are nothing fancy but their slopeside locations are prime.

Not far from Sunday River is Mt Abram, a pint-sized hill, with a worthy pitch and 1,030’ vertical. This family owned ski area, 20 minutes south of Sunday River, makes for a fun stop over or night ski spot – and the prices are extremely palatable. Visiting a ski area with one summit lift means you can keep track of the kids and keep your ego in check. Bullwinkle-themed runs entertain the kids, like Dudley Do Right and Rocky’s Run (though that one is double black).

Parents can head for Mt Abram’s rustic but raucous Loose Boots lounge for some Maine humor over a beer with the patrollers, while the kids hit the White Wave snow-tubing park.

There is good reason you see so many blue triangular Sugarloaf/ USA bumpah’ stickahs’, and it is not just because it is Maine’s single largest ski mountain. The Loaf has a personality all its own and families find it extremely homey despite its impressive size of 2,820’ vertical.

Sugarloaf’s is famed for its extensive terrain, vast snowfields and award-winning village. Families can choose from Sugarloaf’s slopeside hotel or one of the abundant ski in/ski out condos.

Kids adore Sugarloaf’s mascots and the ample activities from ski camp to evening games. Teens love the giant half-pipe and huge hits in the terrain parks. Parents enjoy the Loaf’s slopeside village dotted with watering holes, casual eateries, and cute shops.

You are sure to be impressed by the loyalty of resort staff and locals alike. It’s a fascinating place to visit, like a mountainous magnet in the middle of Maine.

While the Loaf is worth the lengthy drive for a weekend, the midweek ski and stay packages are where families find the real deal and get the true flavor. Your little ones will thank you when they meet Amos the Moose, and you will be smiling once you are in The Bag – just go – it will all make sense once you are a “Loafer.”

Big Squaw is also a bit of a drive – and those are Maine directions for ya’. There is much more to this modest mountain than their marketing slogan – “Ski the View.” An old double chair climbs to some exhilarating terrain with preeminent views of Maine’s biggest Lake and mountain, Moosehead and Katahdin. A more modern triple chair on the lower mountain caters to intermediates and beginners.

If you want to expose your kids to skiing, think 1960’s – then Squaw is your ticket. There is nothing high-speed or high-tech here, but there is plenty of character – and characters. Lunch is served out of crock-pots. Adult lift ticket prices are $15 midweek and $25 weekends – a bargain for 1,750’ genuine vertical.

Your family can lodge at the new, albeit basic, slopeside hotel for $94 a night. The views are exceptional of Moosehead – which sums up the entertainment. Or you can mix with the wicked witty locals and snowmobilers by renting a simple Lakeview apartment at the Black Frog in “downtown” Greenville.

Saddleback in the Rangeley Lakes region has a similarly old-fashioned feel. Two double chairs serve some wonderful winding trails. A temperamental summit T-bar is the only way to ski the most challenging of Saddleback’s 1,830’ vertical.

What makes Saddleback charming is the friendliness of its inhabitants. It’s one big happy family and you are welcome to it – from the cozy log base lodge, to lollipop races.

This past fall, a retired Maine geology professor purchased the sleepy Saddleback with plans to preserve the affordable family atmosphere. However, a slopeside hotel and expansion of the available terrain are in the future plans.

For now you can rent a privately owned mountainside condo, or stay in the lakeside town of Rangeley - where you will be among more snowmobilers than skiers.

Another family hill is Shawnee Peak on Moose Pond in Bridgton. Shawnee is near the New Hampshire border, just 20 minutes from the lodging and shopping of North Conway. The Peak offers 1,300 feet of vertical of pleasant skiing on two sides with fixed grip lifts, and lovely views of the surrounding Maine countryside and nearby Whites.

Ticket specials on-line may tempt you to sneak to the Peak. As the largest night ski facility in New England, Shawnee is the place to take kids with evening energy overload.

It’s a natural instinct to head north for the best skiing. Traveling to Maine, you will be rewarded with big mountain skiing served with down-home Downeast flavor.

Snowmobiling may rank as Maine’s #1 winter recreation, but skiing is Maine’s real state treasure.
 

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