The Yellowstone Club

On an average day at Vail, Colorado, 10,000 skiers carve up the 5,300-acres of snow-covered slopes. At Yellowstone Club, 100 or so fortunate skiers share the vast 2,200-acre private playground among Montana’s mountains, riding high-speed lifts and schussing perfectly groomed trails. Membership has its privileges indeed. Yellowstone Club members know no lift lines – just untouched powder, elegant slopeside lodges and an amiable community of like-minded millionaires.

Having been granted a peak at this remote resort for the rich, (not because of my stock portfolio – but because of my press affiliation), I can tell you that Yellowstone Club is every bit cushy but casual, opulent yet approachable, and financially impressive but family friendly, all rolled into a postcard setting in the remote mountains of Montana near the northwest corner of Yellowstone National Park and bordering Big Sky Ski Area.

I expected to see diamond-studded Bogner wearing stars, sitting in the ski lodge by a roaring fireplace with cell phones in one hand, champagne flutes and caviar canapés in the other. Instead I saw a few relaxed families carving corduroy on Jack Kemps’ namesake trail “Quarterback Sneak.” Along the otherwise vacant ski slopes, I spotted a few smiling ski instructors each with a cozy camp of three giggling kids in tow.

What is extremely impressive to the eye, besides the mountainous Montana landscape and endless blue sky, is the real estate of magnificent log hewn mansions sprinkled around the immaculate ski resort.

The diamonds I discovered were on the slopes, of the double black trail variety. Translation – we were not in Naples anymore. I was amazed to find bountiful steep and deep off the panoramic 9,860-ft. Pioneer Mountain, accessible exclusively to Club members. A handful of the rich get radical on seriously extreme chutes like Hour Glass, Stein’s and Elevator Shaft. No worries for intermediate and beginning skiers though, as there are miles and miles of scenic but soft-on-the-ego ski trails.

Our two kids (ages 10 and 12) thought Yellowstone’s terrain was “awesome.” I would add “spacious” with three or four-dozen skiers and snowboarders allotted eight modern lifts at a ski area with more acreage than Aspen, and a vertical drop of 2,700-feet. You can still find untracked powder at 3:30 in the afternoon the day after a foot of “freshies,” if you haven’t succumbed to the fireside lounge for après toddies, slippers provided.

While the skiing is as good, or better because of the short guest list, as any top ski resort in North America – it is the Club’s niceties that really wowed me. For a hot cocoa break, we skied up to the Timberline Lodge and Cafe, a splendid mid-mountain lodge. As we entered the elegantly appointed ski chalet, waiters poured fresh water with lemon for us, and delectable freshly baked cookies were piled high on a china plate (not a cafeteria tray in sight). A short respite on the deep leather couches by the stone fireplace reinvigorated us to explore more of the 40-something trails before lunch.

We skied past palatial slopeside homes on our descent to the Buffalo Lodge, where we discovered another cozy, western-themed interior. Our day’s menu special was a beautifully arranged Asian salmon salad, far healthier and more delicious than the usual ski area fare of burger and fries – though they offer that too for the kids. Shedding ski boots for soft slippers, and lunching with linens – now I could easily become accustomed to this.

The owners, Tim & Edra Blixseth, self-made billionaires themselves, opened this world’s only private ski and golf community in 2000. Now that the uber-wealthy couple is divorced (the Club was a sticking point of their $2 billion settlement), the Club is for sale for about $600-million.

The Yellowstone’s posh ski-in ski-out lodges, dramatically decorated with indigenous elk skin coverings, sumptuous decor, and Edra’s thoughtfully selected antiques. The lavish log homes carefully spaced throughout the high-elevation enclave reflect Tim’s background in the local Timber industry, and much of the wood is carefully harvested from their extensive personal stash.

Money talks, but it doesn’t guarantee you a spot in this special skiing society. Initial access is by invitation only. And apparently a few snooty high-maintenance guests have been asked to leave. While this is a privileged powder crowd, it is also an extended family– so respect for fellow members, their children, and the Club’s first-rate staff is a golden rule. It is about blending in, not boasting your way up apparently. A family-friendly atmosphere is of peak priority at Yellowstone Club.

Kids rule, surprisingly, with daily activities (on and off slope) organized by the staff, including avalanche dog rescue demonstrations, Wacky Winter Olympics, and après ski games just for the under-aged set. Select evenings, the privileged pint-size members are delivered by snow-cat for a slumber party sleepover in the summit ski lodge. Cool to be a kid in high places. Yellowstone has something for tiresome teens too, a trendy “20 Below” hangout area offers foosball, comfy couches, and internet access.

Meanwhile, parents are left to dine by fireside and candlelight in one of the stylish timber lodges - a seamless transition from ski glove to white glove service. A hand-carved bar stool at the Rainbow Lodge is a favorite social spot for cordial drinks and discussion. Dinner here consists of gourmet wild game or native bison prepared by the acclaimed chefs. You can be seated next to the massive stone fireplace complete with a gentle waterfall that trickles over the native rocks, or perhaps you prefer a window seat with a view of Big Sky’s pinnacle 11,000-foot Lone Peak, framed by an infinity-edge reflecting pool. Who knew skiing could be so sublime?

Our kids got word that Yellowstone kids quickly become pen pals (or more modern e-mail buddies), plotting mutual Montana trips with newfound club compadres, telling Mom and Dad “we have to go when the so and so family is going.”

Not only does the Club registry include the finest fallline families as members, their staff résumés are equally impressive.

A former Secret Service agent handles security, a key detail with such a high concentration of mega-moguls. Marketing is under the direction of 1972 Olympic skier and CBS sports commentator Hank Kashiwa. Dan Quayle and Jack Kemp are on the board (when they are not on their ski boards). Rounding out the downhillers on the honorary board are pro-golfers Annika Sorenstam and Tom Weiskopf – Yellowstone’s 18-hole golf course designer.

Even the lift attendants here are groomed, gracious and well educated. It seems they have plenty of time for literature between the infrequent chair loading to pursue their own book club and swap.

As director of skiing, ski film legend Warren Miller serves as skiing play date to prospective members on Yellowstone’s perfectly manicured pitch about 80 days each winter. Miller said, “They invited me to come here and be director of skiing. It’s the best job; I have no boss, no job description. Once and awhile they ask me to ski with someone.”

The extravagant 110,000 square-foot Club Lodge at the base of the ski mountain bears Miller’s name, and serves as a gathering place for members, complete with exercise facilities and a grand ballroom.

John Steinbeck wrote in Travels with Charley, “Montana has the kind of mountains I’d create if mountains were put on my agenda.” If Steinbeck had been a skier, I am certain Yellowstone Club membership would have been on his agenda.