Phoenix House raises Bethel bar for dining

 New England Ski Journal

By Heather Burke

Sunday River ranks among the best in New England for snowmaking and grooming. Food, however, was an afterthought at this sprawling Maine ski resort. Ironic that Les Otten (founder of the original American Skiing Company at this Bethel based ski area) left the ski biz, and then transformed his slopeside home into an upscale restaurant.

The Phoenix House debuted in 2004. Instead of rising from the ashes like the mystical bird, the restaurant grew from its previous structure to overlook Sunday River’s South Ridge base and slopes.

“The Well,” located downstairs, on the entry level, is a lively après ski spot, offering drink specials and a lounge menu with $5 specials to revive ravenous resort employees and late resort arrivals. TV screens and bar stools give The Well a casual, come as you are feel –even if you’re still wearing ski boots.

Upstairs the dining room is considerably more cosmopolitan (especially by humble Bethel standards). High beamed ceiling and a wall of windows frame the Phoenix’s view of the mountain. Of course, the view turns dark during dinner except for the twinkling lights of the groomers buffing tomorrow’s trails.

The menu is geared to refined but hearty skier appetites, with the chef’s focus on fresh cut steaks and homemade pasta. Among the creative appetizers are calamari, exotic mushroom strudel, and a daily risotto, along with the usual but homemade suspects – French onion soup and clam chowder.

I liked creating my own entrée from the extensive assortment of pasta shapes, sauces and toppings. Knowing I’d be skiing the next day, I savored my carb-concoction of sundried tomato and mascarpone ravioli sauced in vodka cream sprinkled with grilled shrimp. My dinner companion’s rack of lamb was tender and deliciously soaked in rum – yum. Presentation was artful, but not over the top. I for one am uncomfortable destroying a chi-chi chef’s tower of truffles, no worries here – decorative but not dainty.

The Saturday night in February we dined, the restaurant was busy and boisterous. The cathedral concept gives the restaurant a bustling bistro atmosphere. Still, service on this well-attended night was organized, the staff seemed to be trained to work together and put on a good show. Les Otten was dining at his own establishment that night, a sign that his nephew/manager Skip Bennett has the restaurant operation under control.

10 Peaks at Sunday River10 Peaks at Sunday River – Luxury Ski House, Newry, Bethel - Maine
5 Bedroom, 3 Full Bath 3,550 sq ft Luxury Ski House. Sunday River’s best view. Giant great room with huge fireplace and entertainment center! Game room with second entertainment center and pool table. Gourmet kitchen. Master Bedroom with fireplace, canopy bed, 2 person Jacuzzi Spa Tub and walk-in tile shower. Covered deck with gas BBQ. Infinity edge Hot Tub with stereo system. Laundry room with hi capacity washer/dryer. Tastefully decorated with leather sofas, Antique Skis, snowshoes, sleds, toboggans and wildlife motif. Hi Def Flat Screen TV's. Free Wifi and Internet access via on-site computer. Heated garage. Radiant Floor heat plus 2 gas fireplaces.
The Phoenix’s slopeside sophistication comes at a price. The menu is entirely a la carte – right down to veggies, rice or red bliss potatoes as add-ons. But for your bucks, you have a fine, fresh dining experience with a polished wait staff presence. The dining room offers a Sunday Jazz Brunch certain holiday weekends – so you can grab a few runs, work up an appetite, then dine while watching the parade of beginners bungle down South Ridge.

If the top floor fare is too steep, The Well pub menu has burgers, chili, and deals like “hot legs and Heine” for ski bum budgets. With Friday and Saturday après ski entertainment and drink specials, The Well is becoming popular with locals and ‘landers – in just its second season.

Bottom line, Sunday River is well served by this ski chalet turned culinary hot spot. The Phoenix rises above standard ski area sustenance. Try it out, make reservations, and if you arrive early, relax on a sumptuous leather couch or belly up to the bar with your embellished account of skiing Agony.

The Phoenix House and Well is located on Skiway Road, at the base of South Ridge, Sunday River Ski Resort, Maine

Phoenix House and Well 207-824-2222
All Photography by Greg Burke
 
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