Phoenix House Sunday River's best dining

Sunday River ranks among the best in New England for snowmaking and grooming. Food, however, was an afterthought at this sprawling Maine ski resort. Ironic that Les Otten (founder of the defunct American Skiing Company) left the ski biz, and then transformed his slopeside home into an upscale restaurant.

The Phoenix House debuted in 2004. Instead of rising from the ashes like the mystical bird, the restaurant grew from its previous structure to overlook Sunday River’s South Ridge base and slopes.

“The Well,” located downstairs, on the entry level, is a lively après ski spot, offering drink specials and a lounge menu with $5 specials to revive ravenous resort employees and late resort arrivals. TV screens and bar stools give The Well a casual, come as you are feel –even if you’re still wearing ski boots.

Upstairs the dining room is considerably more cosmopolitan (especially by humble Bethel standards). High beamed ceiling and a wall of windows frame the Phoenix’s view of the mountain. Of course, the view turns dark during dinner except for the twinkling lights of the groomers buffing tomorrow’s trails.

The menu is geared to refined but hearty skier appetites, with the chef’s focus on fresh cut steaks and homemade pasta and pizzas. And most everything is under $20 bucks to please skiers' budgets.

Knowing I’d be skiing the next day, I savored my carb-concoction of tortellini with roast chicken. My dinner companion’s strip steak was tender and delicious. Presentation was artful, but not over the top. I for one am uncomfortable destroying a chi-chi chef’s tower of truffles, no worries here – decorative but not dainty.

The Saturday night in February we dined, the restaurant was busy and boisterous. The cathedral concept gives the restaurant a bustling bistro atmosphere. Still, service on this well-attended night was organized, the staff seemed to be trained to work together and put on a good show. Les Otten was dining at his own establishment that night, a sign that his nephew/manager Skip Bennett has the restaurant operation under control.

The dining room offers a Sunday Jazz Brunch certain holiday weekends – so you can grab a few runs, work up an appetite, then dine while watching the parade of beginners bungle down South Ridge.

Bottom line, Sunday River is well served by this ski chalet turned culinary hot spot. The Phoenix rises above standard ski area sustenance. Try it out, make reservations, and if you arrive early, relax on a sumptuous leather couch or belly up to the bar with your embellished account of skiing Agony.

New England | Rockies | Fun in the Sun