Colorado

Cowboy Chic Town and Deep Snow to Boot

Steamboat Colorado

Featured in N Magazine

By Heather Burke

 

I am sure that we were the only “first-timers” on our flight full off excited Steamboat skiers. Favorite glade trails and best après ski spots were the hot topics amongst our new ski buddies as we landed at Hayden Airport, amid a snow-covered prairie surrounded by Rocky Mountains. During our 22-mile shuttle to Steamboat Springs, we gleaned from these savvy travelers that Steamboat may not have any extreme steeps, but it does have a very steep return rate.

Why does this place (called “The Boat” for those in the know) have such a strong contingent of return guests? Maybe it’s the snow. The resort even registered their trademark “Champagne Powder,” because it’s that perfect, fluffy variety of white stuff that tickles your nose like Champagne bubbles. Last winter, Steamboat received over 35 feet of it. Cheers!

It could be the Colorado sunshine that heralds blue sky and perfect skier temperatures - brisk enough to bring ruddy red cheeks, but never bitter.

Or maybe it’s the authentic cowboy town and hot springs nearby that give this place cachet. Or the fact that kids fly free and use equipment free (as long as they’re with paying parents.

Arriving at The Steamboat Grand Hotel, our bellhops could not have been more genial. Even our excessive ski bags didn’t scare these young, cowboy hat-wearing bucks. The dramatic wilderness-themed lobby, with its eye-pleasing waterfalls cascading over giant redwood logs, gave us our first hint that we would be very content in this Colorado abode for the week.

In fact, a Florida architect designed this high country, four-star hotel, complete with full-service spa, and condominium style lodging from studios to five-bedroom penthouses.

From our two-bedroom suite, with its rustic, Rocky Mountain décor, complete with fireplaces, a well-appointed kitchen, and a Jacuzzi tub in the master bedroom, we could see majestic mountains in the distance and an unusual steam rising past our picture window. At first, we thought it might be one of Steamboat’s famed geothermal hot springs. However, a closer inspection revealed it to be coming from the steamy outdoor heated pool. Our kids were already unpacking to don their swimsuits.

Within the massive hotel are cafés and two restaurants, including “The Cabin,” which has been featured in Wine Spectator. This elegant, high-elevation steakhouse made for a perfect first night dining spot – relieving any jet lag and jump-starting our Rocky Mountain getaway in style.

The Steamboat Grand is a snowball’s throw to the resort’s Gondola Village, where you can rent ski equipment (or store your own gear and place your boots on the toasty boot dryer overnight). For the ultimate skier pampering, you can reserve a private equipment fitting in your room - a veritable ski valet service. From the Village Square, board the “gondi” and launch 2,200-vertical feet to mid-mountain with magnificent valley and mountain vistas along the way.

 

Having been in the ski biz for two decades, I had heard that Steamboat was tame, family-friendly fall line. Our first run down Heavenly Daze was an ego-pleaser, fulfilling that reputation. The natural snow beneath our boards made a sweet squeaky sound. The deep snow and frosted trees are an immediate cure for the Florida flatland doldrums.

So that you don’t lose your loved ones in all this snow-country, Steamboat offers “Mountain Watches” - wristband tracking-devices worn to locate family members by scanning your watch at kiosks strategically placed about the resort (there’s little Johnny in Giggle Gulch). This Star Trek meets Steamboat technology is free to families enrolled in weekly learn to ski and ride programs, $25 for the week otherwise.

If you are just learning to turn, Steamboat has an award-winning ski school; they even offer a unique Family Private Lesson (author’s note: having taught skiing myself, and raised two skiing kids, I believe it is best the kids learn with their peers, same goes for mom and dad).

At ages 12 and 14, and having been skiing for a decade, our two kids are beyond ski school; however we couldn’t pass up the free clinic with Billy Kidd, 1964 Olympic silver medalist. Kidd grew up skiing Stowe, Vermont, but converted to cowboy-hat wearing and Colorado skiing in 1970 – he’s been the director of skiing at Steamboat ever since. Kidd’s free clinic is at 1pm almost every day. It was a treat to meet Billy (another reason to go to Steamboat) and have our family photo taken with Steamboat’s icon and skiing legend.

Kidd gave everyone tips on how to win a Gold medal; he talked about coming within a fraction of a second of Gold in Innsbruck. Kidd said that Steamboat has produced more Olympic skiers than any ski area, 56 and counting. “The whole town of Steamboat supports our Olympic tradition,” said Kidd. “Everyone turns out for our Olympic send off ceremony and we light an Olympic torch in town that burns throughout the games.”

Olympic bronze medalist Nelson Carmichael hosts a free bumps clinic at Steamboat, but we chickened out when we saw the monster moguls on his namesake Nelson’s Run (maybe a reason to come back another year).

The ‘Boat has plenty of bumps, but my daughter prefers glades (ironic given her name Aspen). And we discovered a Steamboat secret: “the goods are in the woods.” We scored acres of beautifully spaced, silvery aspen groves drenched with light snow, in every pitch imaginable from passive off the Sunshine Express quad, to perfect in Shadows, and precipitous in Christmas Tree Bowl off the summit.

For snowboarders and freeskiers in your pack, Steamboat’s Maverick is the longest halfpipe on the continent. If you like the challenge of a racecourse, The ‘Boat has its own designated NASTAR arena, so you can race the clock, your kids, or the U.S. Ski Team pacesetters.

All this skiing and Rocky Mountain altitude works up a rancher-size appetite. In my ski travels, I am usually blasé about base lodge food. At Steamboat, the beautiful post and beam lodges are up on the mountain and the cuisine is up a notch too (another excuse for fall-line foodees to escape to this fine mountain resort).

We skied down the popular High Noon trail to the Rendezvous Saddle Lodge for lunch. At this mid-mountain lodge, you can choose from extensive cafeteria-style fare, or sit down service at Ragnar’s – which was my pick. We settled into a large wooden table with a trail view for a relaxing repast. Ironically, our server was the same guy who rode up the gondola with us earlier that morning (you know its good skiing when locals slip in runs before their shift).

If you aren’t a “downhiller” you might try going uphill for the gourmet snowshoe lunch tour, a 1.5 mile guided snowshoe trek from the gondola summit to Rendezvous Saddle. Here you rest with your hiking buddies and relish a Norwegian luncheon with a rewarding glass of wine at Ragnar's before your descent.

Hazie’s, at the top of the gondola, also serves a superb lunch - topped with panoramic views of the slopes, the town, and the surrounding mountains.

At night, Steamboat keeps the gondola and the evening excitement churning with three separate dining venues at 9,000-feet. It’s a novelty boarding the gondola without skis and boots, long after your last run. You ride up the mountain under a moonlit and starry sky, then climb aboard a sleigh that transports you to a Scandinavian style five-course dinner at Ragnar’s with live music. Then you snuggle up under woolen blankets for the sing-along sleigh ride back to the resort gondola - not your average evening out.

Right at the Gondola summit are two more evening possibilities. For young families looking to kick up their heels, an authentic Western BBQ is served with lively country music and line-dancing for those who get antsy during dinner.

The more elegant setting is Hazie’s, where we dined watching the twinkling lights of town and the sweeping headlights of groomers working their magic preparing the slopes below for our next day. Our dinners were delicious; the setting sublime, and the gondola descent into the darkness at the conclusion of our meal was mystical – especially after a glass of wine or two at the lofty restaurant.

Storm Mountain was the original name of Steamboat - appropriate given that the 10,372-foot peak has its own weather (generally snowy), and its own weather station. Storm Peak was renamed Mt. Werner for Buddy Werner, local Olympian who died in a Swiss avalanche in 1964.

 

The name Steamboat Springs dates back to 1865 when fur trappers passing through heard a sound like a steamboat. Turns out, the noise was the fizz and gurgle of hot springs. There are an astonishing 150 geothermal springs in Steamboat, yet another reason to visit this cool – or “hot” - spot.

We took an afternoon off from riding the Pony Express quad (our family’s favorite lift pod at Steamboat – that is our tip) to visit the incredible natural mineral spring baths at Strawberry Park Hot Springs. This is après ski absolute, with steamy waterfalls and a variety of pools ranging from 100 to 105-degrees. Then there is the aptly-named polar plunge to refresh you. The natural rock formation of these earthy springs makes for a serene setting and an awe-inspiring soak. At night, things heat up, when the springs are adults-only, suits optional (or so we were told).

You will find that time off the slopes is just as pleasant as time on your boards. Steamboat’s Gondola Village has a quaint collection of art galleries and clothing boutiques to poke around, and kids will be drawn like magnets to the Rock Climbing Wall and Slingshot Bungee Jumping at the Adventure Zone.

If you envision horseback riding like Colorado wranglers through aspen groves over deer and elk tracks, your dream can become a roughrider’s reality in Steamboat. Nearby ranches offer guided trail rides. (I have intense allergies to horses, so I can’t comment directly, but the pictures look storybook).

When your visit coincides with afternoon sun (a common Colorado occurrence), grab an outdoor table at the Slopeside Pub for happy hour, where those in the know go. Little ones in tow can play in the snow while you sip your favorite toddy and view the ski runs you tackled. I am not allergic to après ski – so I really enjoyed this venue!

You must take time to kick around the cowboy town of Steamboat Springs, a free 3-mile shuttle from the mountain. This frontier town has wild-west flavor, and flavorful restaurants from southwest cantinas to Italian and European bistros.

There aren’t so many furry boutiques like Vail or Aspen, but there isn’t the swanky ski town ‘tude either. You meet the real deal folks here who freely share where to shop, grab some grub, or dance the night away. For the shoppers, Steamboat Springs has just enough cowboy chic boutiques and native art galleries to tickle your plastic. You can hunt down western art; buy your guy the Steamboat-essential cowboy lid or a fantastic leather belt.

During our week out west, one more vital reason to go to Steamboat became clear – the people: pleasant raccoon-tanned locals, vibrant vacationers, even friendly cowboys in this authentic ranchers’ settlement.

Our family has skied our share of western resorts. Steamboat ranked high, the brilliant blue-sky scenery is sensational, the skiing is wide-ranging, and the folks are genuine in nicknamed “Ski Town USA.”

On our fight home, we joined in the banter of secret snow stashes and mouthwatering margarita joints, now that we had been anointed into the “we’ll be back to the ‘Boat club.” Steamboat is ideal for fall-line families, Champagne powder seekers, or for ski writers considering a switch to ski bumming (the thought crossed my mind one crystal clear bluebird powder day). Did I mention the snow? You should go.
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Steamboat Resort, Steamboat Springs, Colorado, 1-877-237-2628

The Steamboat Grand Hotel & Spa, 1 877-230-2628

For a virtual snow storm, check out www.bigsno.com   
 

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All Photography by Greg Burke

 

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