This story was Published in The Maine Sunday Telegram

Published: March 2000

By Heather Burke

Remember last March, when we were having a year for the record books here in Maine. That’s when we visited the Canadian Rockies. They were having a minimal snow year, their first snow draught in five decades. This year, Banff is getting the snow. Now is the time to go.

Even last year, we enjoyed Banff’s phenomenal scenery, wildlife, and vast skiing, complimented by superb accommodations and dining. The exchange rate made our dollar seem like Monopoly money. My husband Greg loved it when he bought a beer, gave a $20 (US) bill and got $24 (CDN) in change.

We flew from Boston across Canada, bound for Calgary, Alberta, the eastern entrance to the Canadian Rockies and host of the 1988 Winter Olympics.

“The purpose of your visit?” the Customs Official routinely asked upon our arrival. “Pleasure,” “Skiing,” Greg and I each eagerly volunteered.

“I go to the mountains myself in the summer, just beautiful,” he responded. Different strokes, I think to myself. For we had come for five days of skiing at three distinct resorts boasting 220 trails on 7,500 lift-serviced acres.

Our first glimpse of the legendary Canadian Rockies was during the hour drive into Banff National Park, Canada’s first and still most popular park.

Our first alpine stop was Banff Mount Norquay, just 10 twisty turny minutes above the quaint town of Banff. This is the oldest ski area in Western Canada, dating back to 1926.

Norquay was the first ski area to receive black diamond trial designation, for the steep Lone Pine Trail. In 1948, the North American Trail was considered the steepest alpine ski trail on the continent.

While those accolades have since been eclipsed, Norquay remains current. With the addition of 3 quads, 90% snowmaking, guaranteed grooming, and a majestic timber lodge serving great food, Norquay is a ski area not to be missed. Lacking the big name of Lake Louise and Sunshine, it also does not have the lift lines or crowds. This is the place to be on weekends.

We skied copious cruisers off the Pathfinder high-speed quad, then headed for the moguled steeps of the notorious Lone Pine trail reached by an intrepid double chair.

By noon, we had carved plenty of turns on what felt like our private ski mountain. With the wallet-friendly Ski by the Hour ticket options, $25 Canadian for two hours of prime skiing, we calculated $2 per run (just over a buck U.S.)

For our second day of skiing, we drove 45 minutes from Banff to Lake Louise, the largest single ski area in Canada with 4,200 acres, 3,365’ vertical of skiing, and arguably the most impressive views in the world.

Lake Louise encompasses four mountain faces, and six bowls on the backside. The scenery of glacially cut dolomite summits that jut sharply into the blue sky in every direction is amazing.

As we ascended the first Glacier Express quad, I was longing to glide down the freshly groomed boulevards below. Dave, our mountain guide from Quebec City, had other ideas since Greg insisted that we did not want “the usual blue square tour.”

Next came the aptly named Top of The World Express quad that launched us to 8,300’ and accessed the back bowls. Dave informed us that one more lift would get us to the “real summit.”

Up the thigh burning Summit Platter lift we preceded, a precarious poma that warrants double black diamond status for its 45% climb. At last, we were at the magnificent pinnacle, with hardly time to catch our breath as Dave shot down the steep Whitehorn Bowl.

We skied bowl after bowl, mogul fields, glades, and at last Dave succumbed to a few relaxing groomed runs on the frontside. By lunch, we had logged 22,000 vertical feet according to Greg’s new Vertech Altimeter. I caught a nod of approval from Dave as we stopped for lunch at the splendid Lodge of the Ten Peaks.

After lunch we continued our vertical assault, and savored two fabulous days skiing varied terrain, framed by the ever-present, ever-impressive Canadian Rockies.

Our last two days brought Sunshine, literally and figuratively. At 8:30am, we boarded the Ski Sunshine Gondola, which provides the only access to this 3,500-acre ski area from the base of this unique mountain.

We rode the old 6-passenger gondola, but this past summer Sunshine replaced the rickety lift with a zippy new 8-passenger gondola.

After buckling our boots on the ride up, we headed straight for Goat’s Eye. This upper end terrain has been getting rave reviews for its steep chutes since it opened in 1995. Riding the detachable quad, we knocked off plenty of fantastic runs before moving on to Sunshine’s other ski peaks, Lookout and Standish.

Like a 3-d poster, majestic peaks surrounded us. Mount Assiniboine, “the Matterhorn of the Rockies,” stands out at 11,870’ among the hundreds of other craggy summits.

While riding up the Continental Divide Quad, we crossed provinces from Alberta into British Columbia then hiked an extra 50-feet to the summit of Delirium Dive. This extreme skiers’ chute re-opened in 1998 after being closed for 20 years. Avalanche beacons and shovels are a must.

Looking down the incredibly steep, narrow chute with 100’ rock cliffs made my knees wobble. No adrenaline run for us. We were shut out of “the Dive” during our trip, not enough snow last season to ski the precipitous terrain.

Sunshine typically receives up to 33 feet of quality snow, the most in this region. Even during last year’s low snow, we skied all the wide-open cruisers and even a few glade runs winding off the 8,954’ Lookout Mountain.

Across the valley, Mt. Standish offers sweet chutes and steeps tucked between groomed runs and a terrain park.

It came time to ride the Wa-wa T-bar, (as a ski journalist it is my duty to ski it all). I rode with a Sunshine guide and engaged in the requisite chitchat about the gorgeous scenery. “Oh, if you like to hike, you must come back in the summer. It is beautiful,” she replied.

“Why would I want to hike these mountains in the summer, when I can ride a comfy quad, heck even a t-bar, and ski them in the winter?” I said with finality.

During our 5 days in the Canadian Rockies, we skied over one hundred fifty thousand feet of dramatic vertical. We lodged and dined like royalty, and split each bill almost in half – thanks to the 40% exchange rate. But the scenery, those jagged snow covered Rockies, are what “stick out” in my mind.

Four million people visit Banff National Park every year. 75% pass through the Park in the summer, when it is reportedly beautiful. Here’s a wild and crazy idea: Go now when it is less busy and less expensive, the views are just as stunning, and the skiing – awesome.

We loved our rustic but elegant room at the Buffalo Mountain Lodge, complete with down duvet and fireplace, perched above the lively town of Banff. Three nights’ lodging and three days lift tickets are $311 Canadian per person this April.

A seven-day package including 3 nights at the regal Banff Springs Hotel and 3 nights at the memorable Château Lake Louise with 6 days of skiing is $728 per person Canadian, after April 5 ($1,021 Canadian in March). This is an incredible value for two landmark hotels.

These deals can all be accessed via The Banff Lake Louise Tourism Bureau, www.banfflakelouise.com or call 1-877-754-7080.