“Snow and Escargot”
Quebec’s Charlevoix Offers
Plenty of Both
 We
have the same story to tell; only our family did not shell out money for
airfare, change our time clocks, or fight our way through any notorious
euro-lift lines. We unearthed all the French flair of 25,000 vertical
ski days, replete with gourmet crêpe lunches, and 5 course dinners
complete with escargot. We did it, just north of the border, in Quebec.Quebec, Canada has exceptional snow conditions (its further north – “ay”) and at nearly 50% off, thanks to the exchange rate, it is indeed a bargain. Our excursion north had the promise of alpine exhilaration and the benefit of “culture,” (my mom’s code word to justify ski trips when I was a kid). As we toured the eastern Canadian province, I found myself referring to our ski vacation as “educational” without qualms – thanks Mom. We fine parents were exposing our kids to French, (though not to worry, 90% of Quebecois speak English too). Well-funded ski areas, fine lodging and exceptional cuisine are bonus ingredients to northeast Canada’s enlightening vacation recipe. Just an hour north of historic Quebec City lies the tremendously scenic region of Charlevoix. Bordered on one side by the eastern stretch of the Laurentian Mountains, by the mighty St. Lawrence River on the other, this region is truly beautiful.  We spent
two days riding Le Massif’s two speedy quads of 2,000 vertical each, and
descending the well-pitched slopes plummeting toward the icy St.
Lawrence River. This ski area has the most spectacular water views from
every trail, and from its two full service mountain lodges. What is unique about this well-designed ski area is that you can start your ski day at either the summit lodge, or at the base. We preferred the novelty of driving up the access road to the new top lodge, and starting our ski day heading downhill, vs. boarding a quad – but suit your self. Both airy, window-lined lodges serve indigenous gourmet cuisine, no greasy hamburgers or soggy fries – merci. Le Massif has high tech lifts (since its only a decade old) and new facilities, thanks to a 2001government grant to build a training facility for the Canadian ski team. We got a brief thrill watching the racers flying down the steep reverse fall line Charlevoix trail, which made up for the trail being closed to the skiing public. Our kids are aggressive little skiers, they charged down most of Le Massif’s three-dozen runs, from wide-open cruisers to twisty glades and knee-to-chin bump runs. Then, 45-minutes still further north, we enjoyed a mellower ski day at the family-oriented ski area, Mont Grand-Fonds. This pleasant alpine ski area has a fixed quad serving a dozen reliable runs, distant views of the River and of Le Massif, and a very cozy (albeit very French-speaking) atmosphere. Grand-Fonds also offers 160 kilometers of cross-country skiing trails, one of the largest in the region.  This
is the ski area to visit on a Saturday when Le Massif draws a Montreal
and Quebec City crowd. We created our only line in Grand-Fonds’
cafeteria at lunchtime. The ladies serving steaming dishes and stews
spoke not a lick of English. No matter, everything we finally ordered,
whatever its name, was hearty, tasty and a bargain (with a 45%
exchange). I should have packed pants with a stretchy waistband for all the fabulous food we encountered. Good thing we were on the calorie burning, ski all-day plan. Après ski (with a glass of wine, delectable cheese and the requisite crackling fire), I thumbed through my French/English Biarritz guide so I could chat with the propreiteur at L’Auberge de la Miscoutine about “le menu speciale ce soir.” I did not know the translation for emu or buffalo, nor did I care. All of the evening’s endless gourmet offerings were artfully prepared and delicious at this charming century-old barn. Staying at Inns with children requires that they keep a lid on their behavior. Although our kids loved the hearty breakfast served at Auberge Beauséjour, they preferred a “more like home” setting of a private condo.  Le
Genévrier is an affordable four-season campground, in the artist
community of Baie St-Paul just 10 minutes from Le Massif, that rents
fully equipped chalets in winter. This location was spacious, basic
(maybe even sparse) and comfortable for our family; with three bedrooms,
a full kitchen for dining in, a fireplace, and a sprawling resort with
ice skating and sledding for the kids to explore. Our kids made fast
“amis” at the tubing hill, learning to count in French to take their
turns on the slippery slide. Sure it’s a lengthy drive to Charlevoix (about 8 hours from Boston), but the further north you go, the deeper the snow. On your way to and from Charlevoix, I recommend a stop at Mont Sainte Anne for a day of skiing and more phenomenal views. This two-sided ski mountain has a swift gondola, a lovely full service slopeside hotel - Château Mont Sainte Anne, and a happening resort ambiance. It’s not so deeply French speaking as parts still further north, which may come as comfort to franco-phobes. One of the finest restaurants in all of Quebec is located on Mont Sainte Anne’s access road. L’Auberge La Camarine is a tremendously elegant inn serving fanciful feasts to skiers, snowmobilers and some who journey here purely for the cuisine. If you don’t mind lodging 3 kilometers down the road from the slopes, the rooms at La Camarine are modern and neat.  Spending
the day in legendary Quebec City is also a kid pleaser. Obviously Mom
and Dad will love it – one of the most romantic cities in the world.
There is so much to see and do in this preserved 300-year-old French
city. Take a horse drawn carriage ride through the old city, tour the
Ice Hotel and the thousands of ice sculptures built annually for Winter
Carnival, ride the toboggan slide in front of the world-famous hotel, Le
Château Frontenac Quebec is a mini-Euro treasure, without jetlag. We’re talking vertical, charm, a foreign flair, and the value of your U.S. coins will put a bounce in your boards. My husband got immense pleasure out of buying a six-pack of “good Canadian beer,” paying with a $20, and getting $22 in change. Discover the true meaning of “joie de vivre” (and don’t forget “après-ski”) this winter. If You Go: Charlevoix Tourism Association offers lodging, dining and activity information. www.tourisme-charlevoix.com or1-800-667-2276 Le Massif can be viewed at www.lemassif.com or 1-877-536-2774 Mont Grand-Fonds can be viewed at www.quebecweb.com/montgrandfonds or 1-877-665-0095 Mont Sainte Anne can be reached at 1-888-827-4579 or visit www.mont-sainte-anne.com, and for lodging at the slopeside hotel, 1-800-463-4467 or www.chateaumontsainteanne.com Auberge Beauséjour, Innkeepers Diane and Pierre run a lovely inn in the small riverside town Saint-Joseph-de-la-Rive, half an hour from Le Massif and Mont Grand-Fonds skiing. www.quebecweb.com/beausejour or1-800-265-2895 Auberge de la Miscoutine, a century old barn located in the countryside of La Malbaie, is most popular with snowmobilers who come for the fantastically prepared game on the menu. Innkeepers Philippe and Chantal welcome skiers too. www.charlevoix.qc.ca/miscoutine or 1-888-801-0082 Le Manoir Richelieu or Le Château Frontenac are both grand hotels beautifully restored to offer fine lodging, dining and a wealth of activities – topped only by the view of the St. Lawrence. www.fairmont.com or1-800-441-1414 Auberge La Camarine, in Beaupré, serves phenomenal cuisine worth the trek to Quebec. 1-800-567-3939 www.camarine.com Le Genévrier is a campground in Baie St-Paul with 25 fully equipped chalets available for winter rental. 1 877-435-6520 or www.genevrier.com |
