Many of our ski friends are traveling to Europe, and returning with
tales of big vertical skiing, ending each day sipping fine wine and
noshing on gooey fondue served in intimate mountain lodges.
We
have the same story to tell; only our family did not shell out money for
airfare, change our time clocks, or fight our way through any notorious
euro-lift lines. We unearthed all the French flair of 25,000 vertical
ski days, replete with gourmet ski lunches of crepes, and five course dinners
complete with escargot. We did it, just north of the border, in Quebec.
Quebec, Canada has exceptional snow conditions (its further north –
“ay”).
Our excursion north had the promise of alpine exhilaration and the
benefit of “culture,” (my mom’s code word to justify ski trips when I
was a kid). As we toured the eastern Canadian province, I found myself
referring to our ski vacation as “educational” without qualms – thanks
Mom. We fine parents were exposing our kids to French, (though not to
worry, 90% of Quebecois speak English too).
Well-funded ski areas, fine lodging and exceptional cuisine are bonus
ingredients to northeast Canada’s enlightening vacation recipe.
Just an hour north of historic Quebec City lies the tremendously scenic
region of Charlevoix. Bordered on one side by the eastern stretch of the
Laurentian Mountains, by the mighty St. Lawrence River on the other,
this region is truly beautiful.
We spent
two days riding Le Massif’s speedy quads of 2,000 vertical each, and
descending the well-pitched slopes plummeting toward the icy St.
Lawrence River. This ski area has the most spectacular water views from
every trail, and from its two full service mountain lodges.
What is unique about this well-designed ski area is that you can start
your ski day at either the summit lodge, or at the base. We preferred
the novelty of driving up the access road to the top lodge, and
starting our ski day heading downhill, vs. boarding a quad – but suit
your self. Both airy, window-lined Le Massif lodges serve indigenous gourmet
cuisine, no greasy hamburgers or soggy fries – merci.
Le Massif has high tech lifts (since its only a fifteen years old) and new
facilities, thanks to a 2001 government grant to build a training
facility for the Canadian ski team and investment by owner Gauthier of
Cirque du Soliel. We got a brief thrill watching the
racers flying down the steep reverse fall line Charlevoix trail, which
made up for the trail being closed to the skiing public.
Our kids are aggressive skiers, they charged down most of Le
Massif’s three-dozen runs, from wide-open cruisers to twisty glades and
knee-to-chin bump runs.
Then, 45-minutes still further north, we enjoyed a mellower ski day at
the family-oriented ski area, Mont Grand-Fonds. This pleasant alpine ski
area has a fixed quad serving a dozen reliable runs, distant views of
the River and of Le Massif, and a very cozy (albeit very
French-speaking) atmosphere. Grand-Fonds also offers 160 kilometers of
cross-country skiing trails, one of the largest in the region.
This
is the ski area to visit on a Saturday when Le Massif draws a Montreal
and Quebec City crowd. We created our only line in Grand-Fonds’
cafeteria at lunchtime. The ladies serving steaming dishes and stews
spoke not a lick of English. No matter, everything we finally ordered,
whatever its name, was hearty, tasty and a bargain (with a 45%
exchange).
I should have packed pants with a stretchy waistband for all the
fabulous food we encountered. Good thing we were on the calorie burning,
ski all-day plan.
Après ski with a glass of wine, delectable cheese and the requisite
crackling fire is the way they do it here, they are French after all..
Sure it’s a lengthy drive to Charlevoix (about 8 hours from Boston), but
the further north you go, the deeper the snow. On your way to and from
Charlevoix, must ski at Mont Sainte Anne for a day of skiing
and more phenomenal views. This two-sided ski mountain has a swift
gondola, lots of great trails, and a lovely full service slopeside hotel - Château Mont Sainte
Anne, and a happening resort ambiance. It’s not so deeply French
speaking as parts still further north, which may come as comfort to
franco-phobes.
One of the finest restaurants in all of Quebec is located on Mont Sainte
Anne’s access road. L’Auberge La Camarine is a tremendously elegant inn
serving fanciful feasts to skiers, snowmobilers and some who journey
here purely for the cuisine. If you don’t mind lodging 3 kilometers down
the road from the slopes, the rooms at La Camarine are modern and neat.
Spending
the day in legendary Quebec City is also a kid pleaser. Obviously Mom
and Dad will love it – one of the most romantic cities in the world.
There is so much to see and do in this preserved 300-year-old French
city. Take a horse drawn carriage ride through the old city, tour the
Ice Hotel and the thousands of ice sculptures built annually for Winter
Carnival, ride the toboggan slide in front of the world-famous hotel, Le
Château Frontenac
Quebec is a mini-Euro treasure, without jetlag. We’re talking vertical,
charm, and a foreign flair will put a bounce in your boards.
Discover the true meaning of “joie de vivre” (and don’t forget
“après-ski”) this winter.
All Stories by Heather Burke
All Photography by Greg Burke
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